What relay is missing? Is it the CC disable relay?

[joey]

If it starts to kick in the shuts down it is a vacuum leak.

 

[Maddie]

I'm hoping joey's right. Sure seems like if it kicks in and accelerated that would me the case. But I thought you already checked that. Albeit sounded like the diaphram went back kinds slow. Mine goes really fast I mean in a second. I want to order one of those 38 dollar ecu's so keep me posted please!!!

 

[bleizit]

I've replaced the hoses and swapped out a broken plastic 'T' with a brass one. I've used a vacuum pump from the actuator hose to the brake switch and it holds rock solid until the brake is depressed (hose to pump clamped). Ditto when applying vacuum from pump to brake switch when actuator hose is clamped. When the actuator is manually depressed and the hose is then clamped, the diaphragm holds solid. When released it slowly lets out over 4-5 seconds. Is there any problem with any of this thus far??

 

[Maddie]

Sounds like you've tested properly. But why not just energize the vacuum pump to the vehicle? You've got to know if it is worlking properly and has enough suction. Was the tee broken whilst trying the new ecu? IIRC you already tested all the hoses properly and the pump as well. Didn't you ?

 

[Maddie]

Look at my post 8/7 4:29 in this post your ecu should be interchangeable with the 95 should be an amr 1173 ecu if it is follow the pin out test procedure it is a troubleshooting test that will test the pump and hoses it is not the only test but it will test them and pretty much tell you if the ecu is bad or good likewise the pump , diaphram and hoses. Don't jump to conclusions if it pulls the diaphram back that is the ecu might not be bad as there are tests that should be perform prior to this one to rule out the things you've stated that you already tested. This test is using the harness only. Lay the ecu aside just test thru the harness connector.

 

[bleizit]

Sounds good... I'll run through it!