which rod?

[calibre]

OK. I'm a little unsure if I should start this thread or not, but I'm torn in a decision I need to make soon...

I'm heading to Moab in 3 weeks, and would like to throw on the "rod lift" when I get there.
I have identified 3 options: Sasquatch Rods, Toddco, and Johnson - $269, $149, $125, respectively.

Sasquatch and Toddco are adjustable, Johnson is not. I'm not sure I need the adjustable, but I like the idea - so, that leaves Sasquatch and Toddco. Sasquatch is almost twice the price.

I've tried searching on forums, but it appears people haven't discussed these 2 compared to each other. I realize that Sasquatch is on here, and that his feedback/information is very valuable, and that he is a great guy. So, that may be worth the extra money....but, because I just threw a lot of money at getting into the LR3, I am trying to pinch pennies until I can get my "play money" built back up.

So, no disrespect towards anyone here. I just haven't found a healthy discussion on Sasquatch v Toddco (http://www.toddcosuspensions.com/lr3adrihesel.html)

comments? thanks.

 

[calibre]

...and yes, I realize it sounds cheap to worry about $100. But, with $100 I could change out these peeling hood letters, which look like crap, with a new set.

 

[nashvegas]

Where would you buy Sasquatch rods anyway? A quick internet search and I can't find them anywhere?

 

[calibre]

Where would you buy Sasquatch rods anyway? A quick internet search and I can't find them anywhere?

You'd either have to DM Sasquatch himself
http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread.php?t=10639&highlight=reset+computer

Or here:
http://www.lucky8llc.com/Search.asp?Manu=Sasquatch

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

I have no experience with any of the above. I made my own for about 5USD. Maybe ten if you count the scrap metal I used as the rod itself. I haven't seen the need to make them adjustable yet (I've had em on for a year know). I believe I shotened them to the point of 1.75 inches of lift. This allows me the additional clearence I needed with the BFG's and I can still use the full function of the Air Suspension including the Super Extended mode.
Just my 2cents.

 

[Neild]

Why would you need to adjust them?. Couldnt the adjuster come loose?

 

[blackforestham]

Ok...cat's out of the bag here. Sasquatch is in the house. I think this is a great discussion to cover a couple of angles.

ToddCo vs. Sasquatch

Both are adjustable. Both work exceptionally well. Similar design. Difference approach. Let's take a ride on the Wayyy Back Machine. In late '06, a dude from Spain figured out that by shortening the rods, the sensors would send a new signal to the computer resulting in altered suspension heights. Many people got on board with this and started to do the "rod mod". In late '06, I picked up my first LR3 and soon joined the party. It was your basic cut/hack/glue procedure which costs virtually nothing to do to your own rods. This worked fine for me - at first. I added an ARB front bumper with an EP9.0 winch. How many pounds were just added? Front end sagged and looked "tired" in my opinion. Cut/hack/glue procedure #2 to "adjust" for the change in stance. There is NO WAY to precisely cut and glue these ends back together. I've tried all the ways out there and someone actually sells sets like these based on pictorial posts by me and others. EASILY, a 1mm to 3mm difference can occur between rods by using this procedure. It is not precise. Period. When you have 4 separate sensors sending 4 different signals, something is bound to happen - fault.
Skip to the '07-'08 R&D period and I came out with an adjustable set which will PRECISELY control the amount of length between the ends.I chose a 1/4-28 fine thread because it allowed me to control the distance more precisely. Now we're talking. I used high quality components because they were for ME. As it turns out, many people were interested and it turned into Sasquatch Off Road. Cool.
I can only assume ToddCo saw my set and tried to skin a cat differently. My Hex connector (more expensive extrusion) vs round stock. My milled heim joint ends (more expensive) vs round stock formed around a circular template or mandrel. Both employ grommet technology. Two different approaches, essentially the same end product.

FAQ's -

Why would you need an adjustable set? See above. Add heavy gear? Change tire size? Own a HUGE dog that rides in the back? Who knows. It just gives you the ABILITY to compensate for vehicle stance changes. For a fabricator like me, it allowed me to provide ONE product which suits the needs of customers who need 1/2" to 2-1/4" of lift. As a side benefit, the Hollywood crowd can use the same set to LOWER their RRS's on DUBs. Don't ask it's happened...

What if it loosens up and the adjustment is changed without me knowing? Don't worry. Jamb nuts are part of the set. There is no physical force stress being applied to the rod itself. It only serves as a locating fixture between the sensor arm and frame connecting point.

Why the cost difference between fabricators? Different approaches, different materials and different amounts of labor required to complete a set. It takes me 2hrs per set. There's a guy in Germany who tried to make a copy cat set and found out it cost him a pile of money and more labor than mine to make one set for himself. A sincere form of flattery I suppose.

Hope this helps.

~what's up with - blackforestham for a user name? I was eating a sandwich when I created my login.

 

[Disco Mike]

I would suggest you contact Nathon since he is probably the most experienced LR3 person around.

 

[Houm_WA]

Yeah...but Nathan ran a coiler!

 

[ChesapeakeRover]

~what's up with - blackforestham for a user name? I was eating a sandwich when I created my login.

Whoa...I had no idea that was you... I thought u've abstained from this place, I've seen you over on LRR forums but you were secretly here haha

Anyway nice write-up on why yours are superior