Does anyone know of GAP-IID is capable of restoring the original ECU program? (I have no idea, but that's the tool most forum members use with their LR4.)
$22k for new ECM, cats, & sensors... that's funny stuff right there. Did they tell you that with a straight face?
:musicus:
No strainer. There is a wire to the sensor integrated into the cap, the wire must be disconnected first. Then the cap comes out with a float assembly. But, no strainer in sight.
JLR says to replace the hoses every 75kmi or something crazy like that. But the hoses are expensive, like $80-$100...
Just completed a brake flush on the LR4 and figured I'd add some notes to this thread. I used 1 liter of Ate SL.6 fluid. After siphoning the reservoir empty, it will take ~400cc/mL to refill it. Then connect your pressure bleeder (Motive, or similar, as shown back in post #18 in this thread.
I...
Bottom end bolts on most engines can generally be re-used if they measure in spec, but see what the JLR service manual says. Sounds like quite the project there!
That is a heat tab. It is supposed to have the center melt if the engine overheats (over ~120°C).
Question is, who applied it, and why? Can you check the engine serial and see if it's original? Could be those were applied to a used engine sold by a salvage yard... seems unlikely the heads were...
Fantastic vide - THANK YOU! I suspect this is the cause of the clunking noise on our LR4. I probably replaced the LCA's for nothing a few years ago but at least I don't have to worry about those now. Ditto for the sway bar end links. Glad I didn't waste $$$ on the upper control arms or ball...
Looks like pitting or corrosion of some sort. I'd try lightly scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad for grins, but if it's smooth, don't worry about it. The LubeLocker gasket should be installed dry, IIRC?
DO NOT use RTV, it will be miserable to remove in the future. If you must apply something, use...
Using parts from their passenger cars isn't necessarily a bad thing. The majority of the chassis & body are G-specific items, but yes some of the interior & switchgear is from other models. The S-class has all their top of the line stuff.
This is the big issue. The G-wag drives like a TRUCK...
Typically ran mid-15's at 90mph.
Best ever ET was 15.305, best trap speed was 91.55mph.
This was at 2700' elevation, btw. Should be a few tenths quicker at sea level, and a couple MPH faster. Not bad for a 3-ton truck!
:driver:
My wife bracket raced our LR4 a couple of seasons at Firebird Raceway. Zero loss in power delivery off the line. She won several races and ended up 2nd in the Street Truck championship in 2019.
However, the LR4 does not like being power braked for more than 2-3 seconds. IIRC it will cut power...
LR010806 was an older part number, superceded to LR172646. $200 from this JLR dealership.
However, the other 2 part numbers above are also "Purge Control Valves" and I don't know which one people are replacing to fix the fuel-filling issue.
Tire pressure should be 36 front, 42 rear. Wearing evenly on one edge of a tire indicates an alignment issue.
The LR4 pretty much can't break traction on clean, dry pavement with any sort of decent tire. No need for sticky summer shoes. I just installed a new set of Vredestein Quatrac Pro+...
I'm finding a lot of different, conflicting part numbers for "Purge Control Valve" on the LR4.
LR010806 / LR172646 ($238 dealer list)
LR172648 ($238 dealer list)
LR174757 ($258 dealer list)
All of these are for the LR4 V8. What specific part number is everyone referring to?
40% of what? How many miles on the truck?
That said... my in-tank, low-pressure fuel pump failed in my 2010, at 160kmi in Dec-2024. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace proactively if your mileage is over 100k or so. Bummer this wasn't done with the flange upgrade since the pump is easily...
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