https://dcadprod.azureedge.net/b2c-experience-bfg-production/attachments/ckhajy0zr094h01ob0oo3panj-bfg-offroadguide-singlepages-webonly.pdf
Very well written article. Read cover to cover.
KM3s 285/65/18 on used 18 wheels, down from 19s on my HSE. Occasional rub in the wheel well plastics and pass rear ac line bracket and rear drivers side pinch weld. Easy to grind down a little or reshape with a hammer.
Are these tools vehicle specific? If not, anyone in the Seattle area have such a tool to help me calibrate my suspension. The right front went bad at Tahuya and was sagging. I replaced all 4 last summer (original at 180k miles) and I need to recalibrate because the suspension keeps settling...
At 100k miles, new bushings are needed. I get a lot of clunking up front. My 3 has 180k miles. I purchased all 8 new control arms from rock auto, got the cheapest they had available, all seem well built. Next summers project.
My set up got me the thru Naches Trail in Washington from starting point 1 without any suspension failures. This is a not for the faint of heart trail. Sliders, KM3s (or similar) are a must.
I crushed 3 fingers and required surgery and pins because I did not depressurize the system and the strut blew. Be careful. I was stupid and have suffered enough. Please be kind. It’s a very doable job and improves the ride significantly. I managed to insert a new strut 2 days after surgery and...
2 jacks, jack it up off the bumps stops will clear the red suspension fault light. Shut it off first. Then restart once lifted a little. Once the compressor engages, it will pressurize the system. Fix your air line/valve block/air strut/compressor leak somewhere. Or drive it every day.
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