There is a vapor test you can get. It will change colornif exhaust gas hits it coming back up through thencooling system. I believe your local autoparts store will have it or try amazon. What year and engine type do you have?
I actually bought 2 at a really cheap price due to the engines. We are building them together as a good learning experience. If they are going to drive them, they should know how they go together. So far it has been good on the tear down.
Thank you! I will take a look. I still like the idea of having a dedicate gauge at eye level. My kids are going to drive this thing too and I want to make dam sure it is never overheated again. I am wondering why he was still having gasket failures. Did the head flex due to thermodynamics...
I know this is an older post but I am seeking some guidance on my rebuild. I am currently tearing two 2011's down with the intent of hopefully making them better. I have the Hun kits and I found 5 layer metal head gaskets. I plan on checking and resurfacing both the heads and the blocks down to...
I am going through the same rebuild. I have the Hun inserts but I bought a high performance head gasket. 5 layer metal. This is what a lot of performance mechanics recommend. The other thing I am doing is flattening the heads and the block to .001 specs. This should keep things nice and tight...
Yes, everything comes on. Power to the throttlebody, and igniters. I do smell fuel after a few attempts too but without runnong pressure tests I can't be for sure. My tester kit is coming Friday.
I too have a 2011 LR4 that is not turning over. No codes on my reader. I am thinking Crank Position Sensor problems. I am pulling it tonight and will bench test it. There is a chane that can go and still not throw a code. Also, possibly cam positikn sensors.
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