sure. you go this far in:
this is where I shoved in the module
this is the wire ran to the factory aux port in the console
and the USB I added, removing one of the factory 12v cig lighter ports
That sounds like oil change intervals to me, maybe they wrote that in instead of "reset service engine light" or something. And if that was oil change intervals... yikes.
your final option is to get one of the units direct from china. this is the one I have in my '13:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802287371151.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
1.1- the power down issue is with all units. its the way the factory wiring just is. it's a bit of a bummer but really...
how far is all the way? My truck rarely fills up passed 7/8s or 9/10s. When I had fueling issues I literally could not get ANY fuel in without it pouring back out.
The salt kills everything here. My truck came from Colorado and it gets sprayed with fluidfilm twice a year. Once before winter, once before summer for beach season. It's my first rust-free car and I plan on keeping it that way.
I've been dealing with that lately. Haven't had the recall done yet, but I did replace the parts myself a while back. I got other EVAP and purge valve codes, couldn't fill the truck with gas last summer. new DMTL pump and purge valve did the trick. Occasionally I get the purge valve and gas cap...
An indy and not a dealer? seems like they did it wrong, or it's still leaking or leaking from somewhere else. either way, you need the new parts or it will eventually fail again anyway.
I use pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20. Through tests on the interweb and my own oil analysis results on two different trucks it seems to be the “best” for me. I’m doing 6-6500 mile intervals on this thing.
you can run a 265/60-18, which is factory LR3 size and you dont need to deflate the spare. I've aired my 255/60-19s down to 15psi a bunch of times no problem, and that size fits in the stock spare location, too. I am going to 18s for the next set so I can run something less aggressive and get...
Yea man. My CEL lights up every 2-3 weeks for the purge valve. Then it goes away in 2 days. I leave it alone. Just fix **** when it’s broken, and do fluid changes. That’s all.
meh.
I've done the big builds on my two Jeeps, and I've done the "if you unscrew it replace it with new" and "check or change it every weekend" level of preemptive maintenance on my D1. I'm keeping this one as close to stock, and just following the factory recommended maintenance schedule...
It just feels right. I’m used to manual everything (shifters, levers, and lockers) and no traction control. And that mode works the best IMO. I haven’t had the truck in any real rocks to give the rock crawl mode a real go, yet.
I’d be buying a 4xe grand Cherokee or wrangler if I had to replace the LR4 tomorrow. They make so much sense, my commute would be close to 100% electric.
that sucks, but unfortunately there's always outliers.
The case and diffs are the same across LR3, 4, L322 RRS, Disco 5, D90 and 110. I know the tcase is the same on the L320 as well, not sure about the 405 and new range rovers.
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