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  1. M

    2010 upstream O2 sensor replacement - any tips?

    Thanks Jon, appreciated!
  2. M

    Front End Suspension(?) Unidentified Noise

    I did the LCA's on my 2010 a few weeks back. Both rear bolts on each side had siezed. Went through 20 blades in my Sawzall cutting through them. Biggest pain was having to drive axles back through hub to get clearance to disengage the ball joint. Ended up buying an air hammer and renting a...
  3. M

    Just received my notice to put my deposit down on a Grenadier

    Ahhhhhh.......... having watched all three grand tour cycling races this year I now know what type of company sponsors the Ineos Grenadier cycling team! Have I been living under an auotomotive stone? What gives - did they buy the rights to the old Defender design and are now building it...
  4. M

    2010 upstream O2 sensor replacement - any tips?

    Just pondering replacing the upstream O2 sensors. Looks straightforward-ish in the manual. Had a quick look under the vehicle. LH side could not quite see the nut which holds on the elec connector cover - is this better accessed from the side with the front wheel off? Any tips? Have not done...
  5. M

    Intro and oil type/interval/filter questions

    It's a bit of a prejudicial thing, Germany = good, China = bad, right? Just like Japan in the 1970s. I would second getting a mityvac. Makes an oil change a breeze. Don't even need to put work clothes on as it is so quick, and mess free. Also handy for e.g. power steering fluid change. Did mine...
  6. M

    Intro and oil type/interval/filter questions

    FYI, luiquimoly available in Toronto at https://germanparts.ca/?gclid=CjwKCAjw49qKBhAoEiwAHQVTo2iJBS1Op7KpsHxJKudPTSwi9sEzvwACs_GIk7svyl2YjzQRNHjydxoC0UEQAvD_BwE
  7. M

    Intro and oil type/interval/filter questions

    I have a 2010 with 90k miles on it owned for 3yrs. Initially I used the stupidly priced Castrol edge pro, but do not trust the extended interval. Plus the price must compensate for fewer dealer oil changes right? Now I use luiquimoly which supposedly meets spec. Change twice a year every 6k...
  8. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    I did not put any anti-seize on the splined shaft after reading the link below: https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/hubs-bearings/lubricating-light-vehicle-axle-shafts/ Apparently the anti-seize or grease may get pushed off the spline as you install the shaft and end up sitting...
  9. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    For those thinking of doing their LCA's, here's a summary of my general experiences: - In total took around 16hrs, but this involved a lot of fussing around with driving the cv shafts out. I have probably an average aptitude for DYI mechanics FYI. - Don't forget to lock the suspension in access...
  10. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Mechanic was able to fix the threads thankfully. Alignment done and now back on the road. Ride seems a bit firmer. I cheaped out and used Eurospare LCA's. Wonder if bushings are solid rubber or oil filled like OEM........ Clonking all gone thankfully
  11. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Just tried air hammer....... it worked!!! Jacking up knuckle a couple of inches is all it took. Thank YOU for your generous help Stuart!!!
  12. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Note - steering tie rod still attached to the knuckle. That limits pulling the knuckle outwards.........didn't want to detach the tie rod ball joint as doubtless boot will tear and I don't have a replacement.
  13. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    So........ LCA is now hanging down again only connected to the knuckle by the ball joint. I tried pulling the hub towards me as you suggest. In reality it only moves up and down as per normal direction of travel, not out towards me per se. This straightens the CV axle which would seem to do...
  14. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Okay, thanks for the tip! May revisit it tomorrow
  15. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    By now the thread on the end of the shaft is compromised, so either needs recutting or a new drive shaft at this point. I am getting past the point of caring
  16. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    No one has mentioned that wrinkle
  17. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Errrr....... no......
  18. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Air hammer would not budge it?? Had to reinstall the LCA minus the one bushing where I had cut the bolt out. Not a great result. Getting it towed to my mechanic on Monday to let him sort it out........
  19. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Thanks man!!
  20. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Out of interest, were the splines on your where they enter the knuckle rusted too? Never had this issue on my old Saab. $÷€^&£_÷÷÷3₩!!!! It seems I have damaged the thread ever so slightly on the shaft. Nothing visible. Nut goes on fully but was binding slightly and left small burrs of metal...
  21. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Thanks! Not familiar with air tools or how heavy duty an air hammer I need, or compressor size required? (CFM @ what pressure?) - any suggestions based on experience welcome, as I need to buy the air hammer and compressor ASAP, or see if I can rent. Online research not that illuminating.....
  22. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    Stuart, Thanks for your response. Unfortunately no air hammer. I can see 5mm depth of splines exposed from my hammering so far. Quite rusty which is causing the problem. Not replacing upper control arm, so nut splitter it is I guess, or grind it. "Just make sure the driveshaft doesn’t pop out...
  23. M

    2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

    So........ girded my ***** and am in the middle of replacing the LCA's on my 2010. Drivers side LCA bolts all undone (had to cut one). Ready to remove it, but not enough clearance between the ball joint and the drive shaft. Had read this is an issue on earlier vehicles. Pop the drive shaft out...
  24. M

    Back Crossover/Heater Manifold Repair

    On the V8 its eight individual gaskets, one per port
  25. M

    Back Crossover/Heater Manifold Repair

    No, intake manifold needs to come off. Just did the front crossover and heater manifold on my 2010. Overall pretty easy job. I used painters tape to cover intake ports. Hardest part was getting the heater manifold bolts off and reinstalled without dropping them. A bit fiddly, but not too bad.

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