Front End Suspension(?) Unidentified Noise

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Sdawg11

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It’s much easier to just swap the entire LCA with a new unit with bushings pre installed. Atlantic British has some solid options.
 

Stuart Barnes

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If you’re d changing out the control arms then have a quick look at the sway bar bushings and drop links while you’re at it. They don’t take long and are pretty cheap.
Then if you’re feeling really enthusiastic swap out the upper control arms, mine had partially cracked bushes at 55k, and then you’re on a totally refreshed front end minus the struts and steering rod ends.
 

Mozambique

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I did the LCA's on my 2010 a few weeks back. Both rear bolts on each side had siezed. Went through 20 blades in my Sawzall cutting through them. Biggest pain was having to drive axles back through hub to get clearance to disengage the ball joint. Ended up buying an air hammer and renting a compressor. On later models you do not need to do this. If you do on your 2013 the trick is jack up knuckle 6" before driving the shaft back. Do not damage the axle threads like I did! :(
Putting on the new ones straightforward. I used eurospare complete new LCA. Visually quality looked good, but not too pricey. To my mind the ride feels a bit harsher than before which makes me wonder if rubber bushings are solid and not oil filled? Remember to jack knuckle to normal ride height from wheel arch trim before torquing LCA bolts. Also lock vehicle in low access height before you start. Probably took me 15hrs in total, but I wasted a lot of time in getting the axle shaft to disengage from the hub on one side before I learnt the technique.
I used copper antisieze on the bushing bolts unlike ******* dealer who replaced them 40k miles ago.
Good luck!!
 

mbw

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Meyle HD arms, they are still rubber without the oil filling. Stay away from poly they are harsh and can break things.

Get an air hammer/chisel to get the bolts out. Less work than the saw method.
 

iSurfvilano

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Meyle HD arms, they are still rubber without the oil filling. Stay away from poly they are harsh and can break things.

Get an air hammer/chisel to get the bolts out. Less work than the saw method.
What did it break after you installed your poly bushings?
 

txfromwi

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Had to wait for an opportunity, but just completed LCA replacement on the 2013 LR4, 85K. Parts from AB.
Yes, this fixed the problem. Rear bushings on both sides had failed.
Yes, this can be completed without removing the axle nut and pushing back the axle.
Working slowly, took 3 days and about 12 hours - due to a duh.. See next paragraph.

Hint, be sure you not only mark the alignment as per the videos, but mark AROUND the eccentric as well to be sure you get it oriented correctly.
And note both sides (i.e. all 4 sides) of those eccentric bolts so you understand the back sides as well.
(The comment will make sense once you see it...)
(This will save you the extra day and 4 hours I needed to figure it out when putting together the drivers side (multiple times) - because I did not know to look at the backsides as well before I started...duh...)

Needed to purchase a ball joint puller, drivers side was ok, but passenger side did not respond to hammer love.

It went relatively smoothly except at the very end. Passenger side, bolt for the air shock, SNAPPED THE BOLT! The torque wrench is brand new, and all was fine on the drivers side and all other bolts on the passenger side. I will have the torque wrench tested and calibrated next week, but I could feel the bolt stretch well before - what felt like - the 300 Nm mark (and the torque wrench never clicked). I finished by using one of the original bolts and did not try to get to torque, just nicely tight. Did my use of a bit of copper grease ( on the shaft, never the threads) somehow cause this?? I used the old bolt dry, but there would have still been grease in the chase. The old bolt did not feel right as it got tighter either. (For now its tight enough but I didn’t want to snap another one.) Is there something different about the passenger side?

Also, this is a Houston vehicle. It has never seen salt, no corrosion on any of the bolts EXCEPT, the rear LCA bolts on both sides. They released easily with a rubber mallet, but I can easily see how a northern vehicle would require a Sawzall. Photo attached..
 

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