If you’re d changing out the control arms then have a quick look at the sway bar bushings and drop links while you’re at it. They don’t take long and are pretty cheap.
Then if you’re feeling really enthusiastic swap out the upper control arms, mine had partially cracked bushes at 55k, and then you’re on a totally refreshed front end minus the struts and steering rod ends.
I did the LCA's on my 2010 a few weeks back. Both rear bolts on each side had siezed. Went through 20 blades in my Sawzall cutting through them. Biggest pain was having to drive axles back through hub to get clearance to disengage the ball joint. Ended up buying an air hammer and renting a compressor. On later models you do not need to do this. If you do on your 2013 the trick is jack up knuckle 6" before driving the shaft back. Do not damage the axle threads like I did!
Putting on the new ones straightforward. I used eurospare complete new LCA. Visually quality looked good, but not too pricey. To my mind the ride feels a bit harsher than before which makes me wonder if rubber bushings are solid and not oil filled? Remember to jack knuckle to normal ride height from wheel arch trim before torquing LCA bolts. Also lock vehicle in low access height before you start. Probably took me 15hrs in total, but I wasted a lot of time in getting the axle shaft to disengage from the hub on one side before I learnt the technique.
I used copper antisieze on the bushing bolts unlike ******* dealer who replaced them 40k miles ago.