gsxr
Full Access Member
Correct. It's usually a 1-time adjustment during initial installation and setup.Either way, not something you would be doing on a regular basis.
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Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
- Thread starter Jimmy Brooks
- Start date
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Rover Range
Full Access Member
Finding the sweet spot is the issue.
powershift
Full Access Member
If I knew more about suspensions I'd probably like the adjustment but I'm certain it gets tricky and there are compromises depending on the rebound adjustment. It takes a specialist to get the rebound adjustment correct.
Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
as I’m gearing up to do this job in the next 2 weeks I’ve decided to update this forum with what I’m planning on doing.
So after more driving and little bits of investigation I’m 90% sure that the noise I’m hearing is the control arm hitting the frame. Additionally, I can actually see a contact point of where the control arm is hitting the rear mount that connects to the frame. My tires are also extremely worn on the outside despite the alignment I got last summer. So I’m going to start by changing the Lower control arms first and then follow up with struts if the noise continues.
That brings me to my next question, someone sent me a tool off of Amazon that acts like the Land Rover ball joint puller, does anyone have that link? Thanks.
So after more driving and little bits of investigation I’m 90% sure that the noise I’m hearing is the control arm hitting the frame. Additionally, I can actually see a contact point of where the control arm is hitting the rear mount that connects to the frame. My tires are also extremely worn on the outside despite the alignment I got last summer. So I’m going to start by changing the Lower control arms first and then follow up with struts if the noise continues.
That brings me to my next question, someone sent me a tool off of Amazon that acts like the Land Rover ball joint puller, does anyone have that link? Thanks.
This is what I used successfully:
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Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Ordered, thanks!
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Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
It wasn’t the LCAs… so many words I want to say but can’t, that job is a pita and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t pi$$ed off that my rover still sounds like the wheel is about to fall off over any minor change in the road.
Going to get it up in the air again tomorrow and make sure that nothing is else is lose. Really praying I do not need to drop another $1000 on OE struts.
On a more positive note I can’t feel any of the bumps I drive over so the control arms are great. Just not the solution to the problem.
Going to get it up in the air again tomorrow and make sure that nothing is else is lose. Really praying I do not need to drop another $1000 on OE struts.
On a more positive note I can’t feel any of the bumps I drive over so the control arms are great. Just not the solution to the problem.
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Did the ball joint separator work ok for you?
Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Worked like a charm except I used a slightly different one.
Make sure to screw the ball joint bold down to the contact point when you’re popping it out so you get more surface area.
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Jimmy Brooks
Full Access Member
Just finished replacing both front struts. The noise is gone. When I pulled the struts out both had play, the passenger much more than the driverside. New BWIs in, they’re nice.
The job isn’t the easiest, but not the most difficult. Access to the top mount bolts are difficult, had to use my “good enough” torque spec for a couple of them (supposed to be 52 lb-ft for all 3). Also tightening the air line can get annoying.
I’m not going to beat on arnott too much, they were good struts while I had them. I wasn’t easy on them, I did a lot of off-roading with them, never really slowed down for dips or speed bumps (unless they were abnormally big). The air bags held up well, they didn’t leak but the failure that they had is certainly abnormal. It’s definitely a weak point for these struts because my drivers side was starting to develop the same issue. They rode great tho. In fact I’m struggling to say that I like the oem ride more… but that my take some time for me to fully analyze. At first glance tho I believe the arnotts were slightly stiffer but better at absorbing speed bumps and dips. The BWIs are definitely softer, noticeable more soft than the rears where the arnotts felt more similar to the rears. Still need time to undo the behavior of the BWIs.
Anyway here’s a video of the play in each strut vs the new BWIs.
The job isn’t the easiest, but not the most difficult. Access to the top mount bolts are difficult, had to use my “good enough” torque spec for a couple of them (supposed to be 52 lb-ft for all 3). Also tightening the air line can get annoying.
I’m not going to beat on arnott too much, they were good struts while I had them. I wasn’t easy on them, I did a lot of off-roading with them, never really slowed down for dips or speed bumps (unless they were abnormally big). The air bags held up well, they didn’t leak but the failure that they had is certainly abnormal. It’s definitely a weak point for these struts because my drivers side was starting to develop the same issue. They rode great tho. In fact I’m struggling to say that I like the oem ride more… but that my take some time for me to fully analyze. At first glance tho I believe the arnotts were slightly stiffer but better at absorbing speed bumps and dips. The BWIs are definitely softer, noticeable more soft than the rears where the arnotts felt more similar to the rears. Still need time to undo the behavior of the BWIs.
Anyway here’s a video of the play in each strut vs the new BWIs.
