That's a Hitachi. I installed a new Hitachi in my 2010 last year, the old one was slowly dying at 125kmi. I did not want to mess with the AMK conversion. It is $575-$600 from reputable vendors.
Photos at link below of the new Hitachi:
http://www.w124performance.com/ISO/LR/Hitachi/
New Hitachi...
Rubber parts are one thing I don't cheap out on. There is a drastic difference between some OE/Genuine rubber suspension components, and aftermarket rubber copies. The latter often reeks of Harbor Freight. Anything safety related, I don't buy based on lowest price or convenience, especially if...
Be careful with Rock Auto. They sell a massive amount of no-name, off-brand offshore parts of poor quality. And some of their name-brand stuff has proven to be counterfeit, like some Bosch ignition components... Bosch's response to this was "Rock Auto is not an authorised Bosch distributor...
I'm low on ideas. It may somehow be related to the 1.5" lift.
Is the wear problem on all four tires? Stock tire size? Is the alignment performed in tight tolerance mode at the 1.5" lifted height?
:oops:
If camber is in spec, the next thing that can cause abnormal edge wear is toe... but that appears in spec as well.
Are the control arm bushings in good shape, steering linkage, etc? Nothing getting out of spec when going down the road, where alignment will change vs being parked on the...
Wow. That is crazy! Nice to hear the problem is fixed. I'd love to know how the engine vacuum pump could cause smoking. Never would have thought it was possible.
:oops:
Ditto on this question. The trip computer claimed MPG is consistently around 5% higher than actual, despite entering the max allowed correction factor via Gap/IID tool. I track gallons added from the pump receipt, and write down the trip computer miles, to calculate actual MPG. Typically in the...
Amen to that. :(
This is a big deal. And it's why we have an extra vehicle available (ok, possibly more than one) so if a DIY job goes wrong, we're not stranded. Our LR4 is not our primary / DD but other than the unexpected battery failure (despite being tethered to a tender!), I've been able...
A more conclusive test would be using a cooling system pressure tester. Pump it up to ~10psi or so and start looking for leaks, along with monitoring the gauge. It should hold steady pressure. If pressure drops more than ~1psi, or continually drops, there is a leak somewhere... and as jlglr4...
FWIW, I always refill with 8 quarts (2 gallons) out of convenience. I'm not sure if the 8L spec puts the level at midpoint allowed, or is a true "maximum". I'm used to Mercedes engines where the fill spec puts the level at the midpoint on the dipstick, halfway between MIN and MAX. MB has issued...
It is NOT clear at all. Make sure to read all the way to the end of the procedure... snippet below from the V8 manual, steps 18 through 25.
The SCV6 manual doesn't seem to mention this... I'm not sure if it applies to 2014-2016 models or not. :oops:
:
The meter calibration is described in the factory manual, and is not done through the IID tool. The steps should be buried somewhere in this thread, or look it up in the service manual (not the owner's manual).
8L out and 8L in is great. I usually end up draining 0.5-1.0 quart less than I put...
Ryan, that is good info. It's one of the reasons I stick with OE or OEM parts as much as possible. There is almost always a catch with the lower-cost option.
The blower on our 2010 LR4 has been making a slight squeaking noise, but only when braking - very odd. I was thinking about removing the...
I changed mine at 125kmi, old ones looked fine, and I could not tell any difference at all with new ones.
Be careful when buying NGK plugs, there are a ton of counterfeits on the market. Buy from a large reputable vendor (i.e. FCP Euro, RM European, or the dealer)... not eBay or Amazon.
Seriously? That's the most they could elaborate? Why even show stuff in the menu that doesn't work?
I'm really not impressed with the user interface OR user experience with the IID tool software. Apparently the tech support is not much better.
:motz:
Not sure I agree with this. There's no reason the injectors can't last 200kmi+ if using Top Tier fuel with occasional shots of quality injector cleaner (Techron, Red Line SI-1, etc). Now if they are fed the cheapest gas for years, that's a different story...
o_O
I assumed Louis meant halogen to LED. I've never heard of any HID to LED conversions, and the candlepower/lumens difference should not be significant. I'm also not sure if LED would work properly in an HID projector. Google implies it's generally not a good idea:
Can I replace my HID headlights...
The original fluid in my 2010 LR4 with 6-speed was sort of a yellow-ish color with 125kmi. I don't know if that was the original color or not. If the fluid has been changed in the past, it could possibly be reddish, if you don't know exactly what was used to refill.
I've got a small oil leak I'm trying to pin down. I cleaned it up and put diapers everywhere. It's been driven less than 400 miles since the cleanup (thanks, COVID) so I'm not sure if there's any visible difference, but I need to remove the panels and see what's going on. I want to pinpoint the...
This is generally correct. The USA DOT regulations are ridiculously outdated, and in general ECE rated lamps have superior lighting.
This was especially true through roughly the 1990's, after that either the DOT regs changed slightly, and/or manufacturers found ways around the DOT regs (to...
+1. I'm not a fan of offshore copies unless the OE/OEM items are NLA (no longer available) and there's no other choice.
YES!! ^^^
In technical terms, lights are either for right-hand-traffic (RHT, USA/Canada/Europe/etc) or for LHT (UK, Japan, Australia, etc).
Since it's possible to have a...
I didn't even know an aftermarket pipe was available. Reviews on Amazon are mixed. Let us know how it works long term...
https://www.amazon.com/ZM-Thermostat-Outlet-2010-2013-LR018275/dp/B07T23DCDV/
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