Just confirming... you are checking for fault codes with a GAP IID tool, correct? Or with a generic OBD-2 code reader?
No codes at all sounds odd. Wild guessing I'd wonder about the crank position sensor, which on some other makes (non-LR) can cause the engine to die after reaching full temp...
THANK YOU! This is correct: ^^^
IME, the level indicator is as useless as the 2 brake pad wear sensors for 8 brake pads. And unless you have performed the calibration procedure as described in the FSM after changing the oil, you CAN NOT trust that the level indicator is accurate. Who knows what...
IIRC, there is only 1 sensor for each LR4 axle, which is borderline useless. This assumes all FOUR pads on that axle wear at the same rate. If you drive until the dash warning light comes on, it may or may not be too late. Thanks a lot, bean counters. Best to check the pads visually at least...
That diagram is not a factory diagram, it's from an aftermarket part catalog used by dealers. It can be trusted about as much as any news story you read on the internet. To find out how the emission system works you need to look in the factory service manual, and/or factory part catalog...
It finally happened. My battery died, without warning. Although we are not driving much with COVID (parked for weeks or months at a time, on a battery maintainer)... the truck ran flawlessly a few weeks ago in April, but this morning the starter couldn't turn over the V8 engine. The cluster went...
Tip for others working on the cooling system... water pump, xover pipes, etc: Use a vacuum filler when done (no concerns about air pockets), AND also pressure-test the system to ~15psi when full. The pressure test may have caught this problem with a loose hose/clamp.
Side note: Anyone know...
I believe standard DOT4 and DOT4-LV are both glycol ether and borate esters based. I believe the LV version has a minimum 10°C higher wet boil point (155C std, 165C LV) while the dry boil point is minimum 20C higher (230C std, 250C LV). Note those are DOT minimum requirements and many...
I think I got my V8 service manual from a link posted on this forum, it's a ~270MB file to download. No cost, IIRC. However I'm not sure if an equivalent free-download option is available for the SCV6. If anyone knows of one, I'd like to add that to my collection. :)
For the parts catalog...
Prestone wants to sell antifreeze and is not responsible for your engine failure. If you don't have a local LR dealer, or their price is crazy, you can buy online and have it delivered. FCP has it for $27/gallon, free shipping for 2 gallons (over $49)...
Thanks for confirming! I have a similar unit to the Motive and it works great on my other European cars. I've been wondering if any special procedures were needed on the LR4 (some newer vehicles require these), or if it was a simple pressure bleed. Guess I need to buy some of that watery...
See attached PDF. I would ONLY attempt this if you have a vacuum coolant fill tool. I've read too many horror stories about bleeding air pockets; the vacuum tool eliminates this problem. Worth the cost and should be far less than whatever the dealer charges. However, I would buy the antifreeze...
If you already replaced the timing chain components, you shouldn't have to worry about that problem reoccurring, if your oil change intervals (and oil choice) are correct.
If you are nervous, schedule the coolant crossover pipe (and possibly water pump) replacement every X miles, along with...
Fluid spec is "SHELL DONAX YB DOT4 ESL FLUID", which is not standard DOT4. I would not use DOT4, although it may work ok, but that's just me.
AFAICT that spec is for a low-viscosity DOT4 fluid. What appears to be a reasonable explanation is at this thread.
"I looked up the specs for this ESL...
Isn't the 25Nm torque spec stamped on the cap? I also use the torque wench because (1) yup, I'm anal and (b), I have one taking up space in the toolbox already.
Definitely worth having a couple different-range torque wrenches for general automotive use, although I'd consider shelling out for...
Sure, it is LTB00305NAS3. See attached PDF. My 2010 felt exactly as this describes, during medium to hard acceleration, between 2400-2800rpm. Installing the damper cured it 95%. Why JLR didn't have this installed as standard equipment, I don't understand...
Good to hear it's back in service. If the vibration is only around 3000rpm while accelerating, there is a TSB with a fix, adding a damper to the transfer case. If it's 3500rpm to redline, I'd wild guess engine mounts...?
If it makes you feel any better, I did plugs at ~120k and I'm pretty sure they were original. Amazingly, they looked fine and there was absolutely zero difference with new ones installed. Be careful if buying aftermarket, there are a lot of counterfeit NGK plugs on the market, buy from a...
Sounds normal to me (I'm at 125kmi, original chains/guides AFAIK). You may be hearing the injectors, which are not silent.
Is there any significant increase in noise a full operating temp?
Is the problem that you can't find the part number? Or that you have a part number, but the part is not available for purchase anywhere and the dealer can't get them either?
This is why you never shop based on price, even from an otherwise reputable vendor. Nobody is selling top-quality stuff dirt cheap. If the vendor doesn't list the brand name of the parts, that's almost a guarantee they are junk.
Thanks for sharing this data, Ryan, it's exactly what I expected...
I think "SSD" is the dealer tool. IID is aftermarket but should handle most of the same functions. For the trans work, the live data showing ATF temp is very useful.
The Midtronics power supply is an industrial-strength solution to keep full voltage with the engine not running, and the...
If the transmission is bone dry with zero signs of external leakage, it is very unlikely to be low on fluid.
Firm shifts when cold is more likely related to the fluid due for replacement. Ignoring the "lifetime fill" silliness, the factory recommendation for severe service is 30kmi fluid...
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