I went with the B4 OE replacement. Performance seems fine. As I mentioned, the original strut appears fine when I disassembled the it so I really didn't notice much difference. Can't beat the price though.
Looks like you got it all done. Nice work. In hindsight; the only thing I would have done differently first time around was to test the assembled strut before reinstall.
I went to the trouble of buying a schrader valve this time, connected it to piece of airline, inserted that into the voss...
The vehicle wasn't driving like it used to. Felt a little 'wallowy' for lack of a better term. I've owned it for 8 years/70K miles so I know how it's supposed to handle.
Car has a total of 140K miles on it now.
I had previously replaced both rear strut/bags with OEM (BWI) due to a leak in one of...
To loop back on this, the o-rings were fine. I had a leaky bag (or I introduced a leak when I rebuilt).
Got a junkyard bag to fit my new strut and now all is good again.
For the third bolt, notch the bracket while it’s off the car. Then put the nut on the bolt, screw it in a thread or two and slide the notched bracket into place. Finish by tightening up the bolt with a long ratchet.
If you're going as far as replacing the VCG's, you may as well reseal the timing cover while you're in there. If it's the pax timing cover it will destroy your alternator. Ask me how I know :).
Also be aware that the valve covers can warp over time and the gaskets alone will not fix the leak. If...
Thanks for the feedback.
Before going the junkyard route; I decided to try some 'clutch in a can' anti shudder magic go-go juice and it's resolved my issues (for now).
I'll keep driving it for now and see what my options are down the line. Thanks all.
I recently replaced my front struts and reused the air springs as they were in good shape. The reseal kit came with 2 large o-rings that fit around the outside of the collar that mates the strut to the bag.
That collar has 2 more inner o-rings that I had to re-use.
Anyway - looks like I've...
’ve been having some issues with the transmission on my 2011 LR4 (147k miles). Started after hauling a heavy trailer for a day.
I have some rpm hunting across different gears as well as some shudder. Did a fluid change along with a full valve body service (sonnax kit, new solenoids, reset...
Thanks. I’m not against replacing the entire cooling system per se. I’m just not sure what that really means. Coolant pump, thermostat housing, radiator and front crossover pipe seem to be in order. But I’m trying to figure out the myriad of rubber hoses and plastic parts in real terms. Like...
I had my PAX valve cover gasket replaced under (extended) warranty at 98K miles.
5 miles later it went back for the valve cover itself (plus another gasket). The dealership had recommended doing the valve cover first time around but the extended warranty company wasn't having any of it. The...
2011 LR4 with 130K miles.
Had the front X-over and water pump done at 80K miles. (along with LR018275)
Rear crossover done at 130K miles. While it was in there - my Indie shop recommended replacing a few more coolant pipes along with the radiator as a preventative measure.
I'm doing the extra...
Just to close the loop here and thanks for listening to my stream of consciousness. The highlighted drain appears to be the starter motor breather tube. The evap coil drains are above it. Everything is as it should be. Thanks for listening to my Ted Talk
Well - I’ve located the pax side drip line. In the photo, the blue wire is the pax o2 sensor (for reference). The routing seems weird to me. The line is horizontal with a clip on the end suggesting it should be fitted somewhere. Dropping it vertical would expose it to the heat of the exhaust...
Found a puddle under my 130K mile LR4. Coolant was dripping from the front of the transmission pan. Local Indie shop diagnosed it as rear crossover pipe failure and repaired it. I hadn't lost much/any coolant and considered myself lucky.
Since the repair; I've noticed dripping in the same...
I'm about to do the radiator and noticed the connector from the oil cooler will need to be moved over. It's the LR059162 pipe.
Does this have an o-ring inside it (seems similar to the *** coolant connectors) and if so does anyone know the size?
Just to close this out. I had pulled the EPB module and 'reset' it (wound the bowden cables out and turned the driver side in 5 turns, also replaced the gears) before posting here. I thought that was clear from my original post but maybe not.
I continued to have an issue so pulled the module...
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