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Long crank, no faults
I think the effect of an out of time hpfp would be lower than expected fuel pressure, and I believe the adjustment would need to be in the fuel trims. The car would still set fuel injection and spark at the optimum crank position, it just wouldn’t have the expected fuel pressure resulting in... -
Long crank, no faults
I am interested to know how they determined that the fuel pump timing is off. And why no other drivability or other issues. Seems like fuel trims would be off at least as the pressure pulse would not be timed to the fuel injector. I assumed that’s how the system works. -
Long crank, no faults
I wonder if a cam correlation code could actually be due to a failing crank position sensor. The ecm probably tries to correlate the crank position and cam position. The other thing that a cam position code brings to mind is the VVT solenoid (which is apparently a very easy fix if that’s the... -
Long crank, no faults
No wisdom on why the jumper pack wouldn’t do the trick, or even why a slow crank would cause the problem in the first place. If the voltage is low enough to slow the crank speed, maybe its starving the spark as well - maybe the jumper is not enough to give full voltage to both. Not sure... -
Long crank, no faults
Indeed it is frustrating. I was doing a little research and came across this thread. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37673-120.html Similar symptoms. Turned out to be cranking speed was too slow due to bad earth strap. That reminded me of a video you posted where the crank speed sounded... -
When did your crossover go and is your climate HOT (CA, NM, AZ, TX, LA, etc) or COOL (PNW, northeast, etc)
I replaced mine around 62K. Had not failed, but was about to fail. This car had about 30K miles in Texas, and the rest in northern CA (inland, so pretty hot summers, cool winters). -
OBD2 - How is this happening?
I think the first thing to try is tightening up those OBD port receptacle slots. A couple of them look to have pretty wide gaps. Looks like a couple might have been removed in the past (looks like some gouging in the plastic around the pin slot). Loose contacts will definitely make the GAP... -
Oil level not showing
Umbertob’s procedure is correct, but there is another little trick you should know. If you pop the hood and go into the oil level screen, you can click twice on the CAN button (cruise control cancel) and it should give you the level, even if the engine has just been running. Not the best way to... -
Long crank, no faults
I don’t think you can rule out leaking injector or check valve based on good performance when fired up. Slight leakdown might be enough to give you a starting problem, but not running problem. Looking at spark, a failing crank position sensor or maybe camshaft position sensor might cause no... -
Long crank, no faults
Yep, this is a tough one. You could try pulling the plugs and see if you can identify any one cylinder that might have a problem - fouled plug or wet cylinder. Maybe start it cold to get the pressure up, then shut it down immediately (before it gets hot) and let it set for 30 minutes or an... -
Long crank, no faults
A small leak in the check valve (maybe only in one of the pumps) that‘s draining pressure off while turned off might not make much difference in the performance of the pump when running. Wondering if you’ve compared fuel pressure before a normal start to fuel pressure before it does the long... -
Long crank, no faults
Just went out and checked my high range sensor and low range fuel rail pressure sensor readings. Screen shot attached. About same as yours (0.5 v). Low range sensor is higher (about 2v). Did you check your low range sensor? I’m guessing that the high range sensor is bottomed out when the... -
Long crank, no faults
The hpfp has a pressure modulation valve that controls the amount of fuel being pumped, and a check valve that prevents backflow of the fuel. It’s the check valve I’m thinking might be malfunctioning. No way of testing them that I know of, and yes - it’s integrated into the pump, so you’d just... -
Can anyone identify this slow ticking noise?
Sort of sounds like the fan clutch, but also sounds a bit different somehow than what I’ve heard before. Can’t quite put my finger on it. Also, fan clutch should not care if the engine is cold or hot. The fan has an electrical connection on it - you could disconnect it then run it for a few... -
Long crank, no faults
I guess the last thing to add…could take it to a mechanic and pay a diagnostic fee of $100-200 to see if you get any different advice before throwing money into parts. I‘m going to feel pretty bad if you start throwing money into parts based on my advice, and it turns out to be something... -
Long crank, no faults
You raise some good points about there being no misfires (though it seems like you might have had a couple in that last post). Could be that the leak is small enough not to cause much by way of drivability issues, but still letting pressure escape when setting long enough. But you would think... -
Long crank, no faults
That idle looks pretty normal to me. And fuel trims look good. I think an injector could leak enough to lose fuel in the rail while sitting for a few hours, but not affect drivability. I would have maybe expected to see more in the fuel trim, but maybe not. Just takes one injector to drain... -
Long crank, no faults
Mine does not ever rev that high, but I live in Northern CA and keep it garaged, so it’s never very cold at startup. My v6 revs at 1200 for about 30 seconds, then drops to 800 for just a couple seconds, then down to 600. Temperature might affect it, but if you are still in Pasadena, I don’t... -
P0301- Cylinder 1 misfire. Restricted Performance. Rough idle under Load. 2012 LR4
Injector seems likely to me as well, could be clogged but might also be failing open and flooding - much more likely to cause the restricted performance I think. -
Long crank, no faults
At idle, short and long term fuel trims added together should be within +/-10%. 0% is perfect. Those idle numbers seem okay - so not sure what’s causing that spike to 2000. In case you are interested in how the system works: When warm and in closed-loop fuel control, the ECM calculates... -
Long crank, no faults
Yeah - I don’t think battery would cause this issue, but it is maybe something to keep an eye on. Thinking about the high RPMs at start, I wonder if you could have a vacuum leak. What are your RPMs at idle after it warms up? I would expect a lean code to show up, but you could check your... -
Long crank, no faults
I don’t really trust the voltage displayed on the dash readout, but probably gives you an approximation of your charging system voltage. Your probably seeing 12.7 show up after cranking because the alternator just gave the system a boost. Normal that the heater motor would bring that down... -
Long crank, no faults
11.7v or even towards 12v is not good with key off and all systems down. You should be seeing 12.6v. When testing, pop the hood and let it set key off for a good 10 min so all the systems shut down completely. You can also set your voltmeter to max/min, hook it up and start the car. then...
