maybe need to replace the battery ($10ish), find some DIY on the you tubes
Did you try leaving in the ignition for a bit to see if it comes back to life at all?
Dealers also probably charge more for the compressor itself
R&R is pretty straightforward - it won't take you 5-6hrs - unless something breaks
Usually the little captive nuts, but hopefully your compressor came with them (RYH500170)
Just make sure you have no leaks at the hose connections . ...
DIY vs dealer/indie installs?
Have you factored in a diagnostic tool (IIDtool)?
You will definitely need one if yours needs love - the sooner you get it, the quicker it pays itself off.
I couldn't find any on the web either
Finally hit some local junk yards and found a good set
Might want to include reg 10-spoke or 5-spoke in your options
Those grooved ones are not as common
GL
Valves are only up front, just like 5 seater - No rear valves
Only difference is the volume of refrigerant
Sticker above grille says how much for each (front only vs front/rear) system
full of water?? how does that happen
I would run this new fluid for a bit then swap new fluid again - easy DIY at home
Being "not worth repairing" is a ridiculous blanket statement
Totally dependent on the cost of - and repair - required
And said by a shop that somehow can't work on a common...
Just want to mention . . .
In case your dealer is too much $ or too far, or local locksmiths don't have the machine:
My local Ford Dealer successfully cut my blank LR3 key blade in 2 min - for free!
(I think LR3/LR4 share the same physical key profiles)
Then I programmed the fob myself with...
Leave in.
I wired a pigtail Charger Connector so it's as easy as opening hood and plugging in.
Did that for both my cars.
I have toyed with the idea of extending it to the grille so I can be even more lazy.
But wiring it requires some effort. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
What is not compatible about AGM?
What battery did you run?
Can you claim any warranty?
Mine is still going fine. Duracell platinum from sam’s.
Actually has outlasted each of the 2 previous Interstate lead H8 - each died before year 2 with no supplemental battery charger use.
I'm not so sure - the TF ones have their "M" logo stenciled into the side sill
I think the ones in the video are Britpart - no "M" cutout, and comes with the grip tape
Britpart DA7533
Just for the sake of letting us try to experience your symptoms . . .
Could you take a cold morning and set up a camera that has a good view of the pedals and the tach/speedo? (Windows down so we can also hear the engine)
Then do a few takes until you get a clear video showing what you...
Not true. In fact, many dealers may even outsource to some other alignment shop anyway without you knowing.
I have had a successful alignment at a PepBoys with a new Hunter system - lifetime too for 1 price!
Other vendors that do this lifetime (at least in SoCal) are Firestone, and I think...
Ah. It will be more visible and probably reduce departure angle .. but the overall diameter is what limits how easily it fits underneath.
I’m not sure if running them might be more likely to rub somewhere in the wheel wells due to the wider tread. Ppl do use that tire size though.
I do think 265/65 fit underneath - after airing down and using some force - maybe also removing the heat shield. Some tires may also vary slightly.
Not a deal-breaker, just make sure you have a way of airing it up if you need it.
Agree.
I will likely be upgrading to 265/65 from my 265/60R18 next time.
HOWEVER - I will say that I do enjoy easily fitting my full-size spare underneath, and the minimal hit to MPG and acceleration with 265/60. I also really like my Falken Wildpeak A/T3W on/off-road, and in some snow/ice.
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