Search results
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Lr4 Brakes
Why would it be good to coat rotors with a soft metal like zinc? -
Control arm fail
As others have indicated, this seems to be associated with poly bushings. Whether the failure is caused by the bushing stiffness or by aftermarket control arms that might have come with them is anyone’s guess. i went back to stock bushings on mine, and I don’t regret it. -
GAP IID Tool help urgent
Presumably this either wasn't TOO urgent, or the OP has succumbed to the elements due to his inability to drive away. Alas. -
GAP IID Tool help urgent
I’m not sure how to help, but if I were you I would turn off the car, unplug the OBD device, and turn the car back on to see if it resets itself. If that doesn’t work, disconnect the battery for a bit. Good luck! -
Nickname for LR4?
Mine is named Clarkson, for obvious reasons: big, British, arrogant, crotchety, etc. -
LR4 - Coolant Under Pressure When Cold
It's hard for me to tell from that video whether that's releasing positive or negative pressure, and the way this thing is plumbed I'm not sure what to expect out of the coolant level in either case. I'm not near my vehicle so I can't check mine for you. Any sign of white smoke on startup? Any... -
Piston tolerance?
i’m just saying that a timing issue that causes detonation ordinarily would affect all cylinders. I’m not sure what might cause what we are seeing here, but I would check that injector to see what the spray pattern looks like. i’m not sure that could cause this issue either, but I have seen... -
Piston tolerance?
A timing issue that only damages one cylinder that badly? -
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Long crank, no faults
This is a key point, and I’m not clear on what you did. You should only have made an additional parallel path, not substituted be while disconnecting any of the regular grounds. Otherwise…other circuits might now not be seeing a good ground. A permanent wire in parallel shouldn’t hurt, but the... -
Long crank, no faults
Doesn’t have to be that heavy…even a 16 gauge wire with good connections ought to identify if that helps. -
Long crank, no faults
The driver door changing the reading seems...odd. I suppose if you have a set of jumper cables you could patch directly between battery negative and the ground that the coils attach to to see if it makes any difference in cranking time? Bypass all the connections between the two? -
Long crank, no faults
Not corrosion, per se; oil prevents corrosion. But it could have encouraged something to loosen, or is forming an insulating layer between things. Cleaning grounds isn't a bad idea anyway. -
Long crank, no faults
If you have a multimeter, you could check resistance between the ground pin at the connector and the negative post on the battery. You should basically see 0 ohms, but that's an ideal. Realistically, it should read a fraction of an ohm. If it does not, start back-tracing the circuit to see if... -
Long crank, no faults
Sorry you're running into this and stuck. If I were guessing, that set of codes looks like something upstream of the coils, not the coils. As you point out…all of them falling at once? Headlights might be another clue that the voltages are too low. Check battery, charging, etc. -
Long crank, no faults
Definitely try a new plug for this test, too. I've seen plugs fail internally in some odd, temperature-sensitive ways. -
Long crank, no faults
You may have reached the right conclusion of there really is no spark. I suspect the only way a visual inspection of the spark quality might be valid is if you actually can A/B between that long crank condition and the engine running. Or set up a jig (or handheld screwdriver where you can widen... -
Long crank, no faults
My guess is it's not as simple as "spark or no spark." Lower voltage at the coil may result in a weak enough spark to not ignite properly or reliably, but one that would still look like a spark in measuring it. -
Long crank, no faults
It would be really interesting to make a temporary system with two electrically-separated batteries: one that supplied the starter, and one that supplied the rest of the system including a relay to that second battery. See if keeping the ignition system and computers above a threshold of voltage... -
Louder than “normal LR4” engine/idle noises POST timing chain replacement - help my friends! (audio/video link in post!)
Doesn't sound normal, for sure. If I were you I'd try to localize it more using a mechanic's stethoscope or even just a rod of some kind. Do you KNOW that the chain was done, or are you taking the seller's word for it? What's the rest of the story on that 2013 motor? Why was it overhauled? Who... -
Lr4 detachable hitch receiver bent
If it were me, it looks like there's nothing to lose by trying to straighten it. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue, since it looks like it isn't really bearing any substantial load. Either you or a machine shop might be able to heat it with an acetylene torch and straighten it, but it might... -
LR4 squealing brake pads with a recent change from the dealer...
I work for a company that makes software for dealerships, and I do research on them. IME, it's the Service Advisors who hate that pushback and questioning, and don't ike to get caught. Their job, really, is to upsell and generate revenue, more than to earn a long-term customer. However, if you... -
Has anyone run the Rubicon Trail in an LR3 or LR4?
Lots of good thoughts here, and a lot more common ground than not. I wish anyone who wants to run the Rubicon the best of luck. It's a great trail. My last piece of advice - take your time! It's so beautiful that it's worth spending some time on it camping, too. I ran it in a day and regretted... -
Has anyone run the Rubicon Trail in an LR3 or LR4?
I’m worried that I’m getting pedantic here, and I don’t want to be. Any trail can likely be run with a stock LR4 if you’re willing to build enough rock ramps, remove enough obstacles, bypass enough sections, winch enough, etc. My point is that at some point not only does it become absurd (“That... -
Crossover pipe work
^This.^ I don't see how it could be done, even knowing how to do it. Especially reassembly and getting the loom secured again. And TBH, removing the supercharger is not that difficult, and gives you a chance to do more (likely necessary) work. There's a tube under the SC that might need...
