First photo shows the original (white) flange before it was removed. The metal lock ring is still in place.
Second & third photos show the useless tool.
Fourth photo shows the flange removed AND fuel pump also removed.
I recently did this job on our LR4, and I couldn't find any existing "How To" threads with detailed instructions on what's needed to do this job, or details about the pump itself. Figured I'd write it up before I forget how I did it. The original pump had 160kmi on it, details of the failure are...
Follow-up about the quick-connect fittings on the fuel hose, and vent tubing. I figured there must be special tools to make this easier. I found the Lisle pliers shown below for ~$20 each, and have both coming from Amazon, for the next time I have to deal with these fittings. In tight spaces I...
I'll post a separate thread with info about the pump replacement. This is fairly straightforward, although not fun due to limited space, short wires, and short pipe lengths.
Note the old, original design tank flange has the non-replaceable filter integrated into the flange. The updated flange...
With the tank extracted, I then disconnected the vent pipes from the tank. This is where I ran into additional problems. The so-called quick-connect pipe fittings have no seal to prevent dirt & dust from blocking the movement of the release mechanism. One of the fittings could not be released by...
Once the tank is near empty, the next trick is getting the tank disconnected and lowered out of the chassis. Those quick-connect pipe fittings are poorly named. More like torture-connect. When you can't easily get your hands/fingers on the fitting, it's a PITA to squeeze hard enough while also...
I recently pulled the tank for pump replacement, due to a different OBD-II fault code (details in this thread). The info and photos from @thebruce were helpful. The factory service manual (FSM) was generally NOT helpful. I'm shocked at how bad the FSM is. Many steps have no text description, and...
Forgot to mention: When installing the tank, I double-checked each quick-connect pipe fitting. Or so I thought. Of course when running the fuel pump priming sequence (thanks for the tip, @scapistron!), I heard an odd sound. After a few seconds I figured I should check, and yup, raw gas was...
Success! Problem solved. :thrasher:
Root cause was a failing electrical connection at the flange, INSIDE the tank. Photos attached below.
Had I known what the normal resistance of the pump motor was, I could have figured this out much sooner. The new VDO pump assembly measures 0.3 ohms. At the...
Update... there is no test port on the LR4 with V8 engine (probably not the SCV6 either). No way to attach a gauge without getting really creative and inserting a custom-fabricated "T" into the quick-connect fitting ahead of the fuel tank. Also doesn't sound like SDD can read the sensor, so...
While chasing a fuel system problem (details in this thread), one of the possible solutions was a faulty low-pressure sensor in the fuel supply pipes from the tank to the engine. Since a new sensor was ~$40 it seemed like it was worth a shot before dropping the fuel tank, which apparently...
Even if there are no issues starting in cold weather, it's REALLY nice getting heat almost immediately after a cold start. I'd like to add the block heater to our LR4 but based on other threads I've seen, the installation process ain't fun.
:hmmmm:
Another update. I was able to finally drain the tank. I made one last attempt today (after spending 20-30 mins yesterday, unsuccessfully) to get the siphon hose into the tank. Today it worked! But, I was only able to siphon 6 gallons out (estimated 14 gallons remaining).
Next was pulling the...
Replacement fuel pump has arrived, other parts are in transit.
New problem: I can't siphon the 20 gallons of gasoline out of the tank. I can insert a hose almost 5 feet down the filler pipe, but the hose won't contact liquid. And it won't go any further than ~4.8 feet down the filler pipe. The...
The new low pressure sensor arrived yesterday from FCP (link), appears to be OEM and made in Mexico. Replacing that stupid thing is a total b itch of a job due to ZERO access room. There's barely space to fit one hand, let alone 2 hands and 2 tools. I'll post a separate thread with photos, since...
I connected a volt meter and observed ~14.2v after a cold start. Voltage remained in the low 14's. Although I wasn't watching the meter when the engine died, I don't think the voltage did anything funky. I think the alternator is OK for now, there were no other codes or voltage-related...
Resurrecting this old thread. I have the same questions:
Does a test port exist for the low pressure side? I don't want to go on a snipe hunt.
GAP IID only shows fuel rail (high pressure) data. Seems like a pretty big miss, since there is a low pressure sensor that transmits a low-pressure...
If the truck was still running normally, I'd probably consider this for the recall... but right now I'd be stuck paying the indy shop to fix the current shutoff problem, and that's not in the budget. If a new sensor fixes the 4-minute shutoff, then yep, I might look into having the recall done...
Nope, the recall is not done yet. I moved 10 hours away from the dealer in early 2022, just before the parts became available. I figure if I have to drop the tank and open it up for inspection, I might as well do the tank flange upgrade myself.
I'll dig up the part number for that sensor next...
@MellonRover - I connected a voltmeter when starting, voltage went up to 14.8v and seemed normal. When the engine died, I wasn't watching the voltage to see if there was a spike just before shutdown, but there were no other codes besides the usual P0627.
@Rover Range - the replacement FPDM made...
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