The local JLR dealer in Boise is showing a bit over 3 weeks out for the next available service appointment.
That's better than Mercedes of Boise, which was 4 weeks out back in July, bumped to 8 weeks out in Sept/Oct, and currently is showing 4 months out. That's right, next available MB...
I was wondering the same thing... what else should be replaced at the same time? Level sending unit perhaps? I've always had some fuel gauge weirdness despite some work at the dealer by the PO.
The bigger question is... if you just had a new version of the old/defective part installed, doesn't it still need the new/improved part installed? I haven't seen any confirmation either way.
:hmmmm:
Have you checked both the Land Rover factory manual, and also the Jaguar factory manuals? I only have the LR4 manual, I don't know if the Jag version is any better.
Stretch bolts are not always a single-use item. Some Mercedes engines with stretch bolts have a length specification, and if the old bolts are not stretched beyond spec, they can be re-used. Sample below from the FSM.
I don't know if the JLR bolts are similar, but it's a decent possibility. In...
This is a good question. JLR will reimburse people who have paid out of pocket... but is there a new/improved part being released? Or are they just installing the same old thing which might leak again in 5-10 years?
:stupido3:
I'm not familiar with the tank design. Is there more than 1 flange / opening on top of the tank to be concerned about? Based on the diagrams it seems there is only 1 on top, with integrated filter?
Photos below are of the old/original style, I think. LR013750, OOS at most places, probably...
A pressure test may help... cost to buy the tools may be cheaper than taking it to a shop. Worth a try if you keep losing coolant and can't find the source.
Yup. It was leaking quite a bit and making a mess. It took a while to de-oil the lower part of the engine, hoses underneath, and the metal protective plates.
Now I think there's just a tiny leak from the rear main seal, which so far is only leaving a film of grime around the rear of the block...
Photos of the internals under the cover, of the old style pump. Note the very thin seal ring. This is the root cause of the oil leaks. The seal is not sold separately, and given the design of the pump, I wouldn't want to risk attempting to remove the cover and use RTV-type sealant instead.
Most all automotive batteries sold in USA come from the same 2 or 3 manufacturers. Poke around Google and you'll find more details on East Penn vs Johnson Controls and whatnot. AFAICT none of the batteries are drastically better or worse than the others. I buy based on price+warranty with a...
I am not sure if/when the new style went into production from the factory. If some owners would take a look with a flashlight under the hood (pretty easy to see), that might help narrow it down.
:stupido2:
After multiple failed attempts to externally seal the old pump on my 2010 LR4 (125kmi), I gave up and replaced it with the new style pump. The first re-seal attempt was at 121kmi, I applied replaced the gasket/seal to the block (it was fine), and applied a bead of sealant around the edge of the...
What the...! Seriously? I didn't know V A G was a naughty word, like s c r e w (the forum censors both).
Sure would be nice if the sysadmin here would FIX THE FILTER and not blindly accept the XenForo defaults.
:pcguru:
Diesels are a separate discussions, but in general, they REALLY like frequent full-throttle, full-load blasts to the redline. Do a few of those during each tank of fuel and it will be a happy klatterer. About the worst thing you can do for a diesel is poke around town at light throttle for...
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