Now let’s talk timing chain and coolant system components at 90,000 miles on a 2012 HSE. For context the car was owned in NJ and PA all its life.
The front Y pipe was on it’s last leg. It came apart when removed. The rear crossover wasn’t as bad but still a good preventative fix.
The vacuum...
Hi all, updating this thread with a Ton more work done to the Cars and Bids LR4.
First off, want to recommend an amazing mechanic I found in Southern Pennsylvania. He did a coolant system refresh and the timing chain job for significantly less than dealers, and after two months the vehicle has...
I wanted to follow this up for anyone who is experiencing a similar rattle. It was the Idler Pulley Assembly. The bearing failed and was rattling, having it replaced during the timing job.
Part:
LR035555
So I was also told it might be the brake vacuum pump, but it wasn’t. Having that re sealed during this chain guide job because. To @djkaosone point, it’s a lot of the same labor if it is a timing cover or valve cover leak so if your on original chains and plan to keep it, maybe have that is a...
I have a 2012 with 89k. Don’t ignore coolant and or/ oil leaks from the front of the engine. Oil from the passenger valve cover can destroy the alternator.
I barley had any leak, until I removed the two front skid plates and saw this
It’s currently at the shop, having new guides and guide...
Hey OP, I just purchased a LR4 and also live in NOVA.
I have Yakima crossbars that seem to be pretty sturdy and not too expensive. I personally think the LR4 is the way to go, if you’re wanting to build. Way more support from the community and more aftermarket options as well. MPG wise, it’s...
@Mozambique you commented on my thread about replacing the rear third brake light! I have the same issue with my tailgate release. It only works when I hold the button and use the key fob at the same time. I suspected wiring/connection corrosion from water ingress into the upper tailgate...
4. Once you’ve removed all the plastic, you’ll be left with the old adhesive. I vacuumed the shavings up, and then applied googone to the leftover adhesive, and used a heat gun to warm up a few inches and then a plastic trim tool to remove it off.
5. Once the surface is clean and even...
Sharing a quick how-to with on replacing the third brake light on the tailgate of a lr4/lr3. I recently replaced mine due to faded discoloration and water intrusion into rear tailgate through various cracks. All leaks have stopped after replacement.
Part Number: LR072856
Adhesive: 3M Auto...
The LR4 had some moderate stains in the rear cargo area and some pretty significant ones on the carpet in the rear passenger footwells. Used Chemical Guys stain Remover, in combination with a Hoover water assisted carpet vacuum. Wow! In combination with some new floor mats, floors looking super...
So I've had it for a few weeks, driving it nearly once a day. Think it sat for two or three days once. I will likely replace the battery soon as it does look old. If that doesn't solve it, will be inspecting the alternator.
Two more questions for you -
1. Are the Eisen lugs a good quality? I have brand new lugs I ordered from FCP but could return those if it's worth swapping to the solid Eisens.. Kind of unbelievable some of these design flaws (like not being able to remove lugs unless you have a extended breaker...
So I plan to purchase the GAP IID tool in the near future - but don't yet have one. The battery is old, so if I'm understanding this correctly I could go to autozone, pick up an H8, and drop it in? Or do I need a Gap tool or the dealer to install a battery?
Thanks!
I bought the pack from Atlantic British, and installed. However I also put weather stripping around the edges and that really snugged it up to the metal. Now there is almost 0 movement in the a-pillars and no highway speed noise whatsoever. Here is the weather stripping I used -
Cleaned the engine bay today, never been a fan of tire shine where dust accumulates but in this case it was worth it, as the black plastic is looking new once again.
Went to inspect the battery, looks like JLR so I’ll have it tested tomorrow. On a side not, does anyone know what the green connector goes to? It was just hanging out in the battery compartment and not attached to anything. Also a hose there with no connection as well. Photos below.
A few weeks ago I purchased an LR4 form Cars and Bids with around 88,000 miles. I've gone back and forth on getting into a Land Rover for years and decided now was a good enough time, as prices have withdraw from pandemic highs. Dealers still want 19-25k for a decent LR4 or sport. It's a second...
I’ve been driving an LR4 for a few weeks now, and my biggest annoyance thus far is the climate controls. Whenever I start the vehicle, they always default back to 66 (driver) and 70 (passenger) with a fan speed of 2. Id like them to either by default be off or to remain on the same temp as I...
It’s the ticking, it’s very faced paced and seems to be somewhat rhythmic with the engine. I’d say after reaching full temp in completely goes away. Seems just to occur after it idles down on cold start, but then goes away on drive.
I recently purchased a 2012 LR4 with the 5.0L v8 on original timing chains with 88k miles. While the engine is noisy, I don’t believe there is any timing chain slap. However, a distinct rattle can be heard from the engine bay when cold. It’s not the failed fan clutch tick, this is much quicker...
Another question for anyone... If the car sits overnight and is not started, does the suspension automatically sink or should it stay inflated over this period of 8-12 hours. I'm a noob and I don't know much about air suspension. What would the signs be if the system has issues?
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