Before you go crazy, there may be a simple explanation. The power supply for radio function and radio memory are separate. It may be something as simple as a blown fuse for the memory. I would look there first.
Found the problem. The connection for the pigtail on the r/s fuel rail pressure sensor wasn’t seated properly. Took it apart, cleaned and reconnected. Starts fine now. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Sitting without a battery tender wreaks havoc on the battery. Just had a similar problem. Battery was fine when I took it out, sat 3-4 weeks, and it was junk. Recharged and tested, load test said good but wouldn’t hold a charge.
has anybody experienced a crank/ no start problem after replacing the chains. I double checked the alignment of the chains as per instructions. The battery was out for over 3 weeks while waiting for parts. Now it cranks but won’t start. Sometimes feels like it wants to start and has actually...
Cranking fine just no fire. Now seems to be attempting to start but still not. No codes. Did the chains and double checked with the cam locks and the crank sensor pin.
Has anybody experienced a crank/no start problem after an extended repair with the battery out. I replaced the timing chains (alignment is good), water pump, crossover tube with new injector seals and some other miscellaneous parts. It was over a 4 week period because of parts availability and...
The crossover pipe is the most common culprit. It is what that plastic tube behind the water pump connects to. Unfortunately you have to remove the plenum to access it. It leaks from the seams and from the seals. You will get a good view with the plenum up. You do not have to disconnect all the...
Looking for a little help. 2012 LR4HSE. The pigtail from the fuel pressure sensor on the end of the r/s fuel rail. Does anybody know or even better have a picture of where it connects. I disconnected it by feel but can’t seem to find where it goes and unfortunately visibility back there is very...
your math seems correct. Just Leary now. Do I trust my original setting or do it over and recheck with the locks. If that is all correct than in theory alternate roations of the crank should allow the locks to go in places. Seems like a better way to check than starting over. Thoughts?
Like rolled over said it involves oil pan removal which involves engine removal, so I checked the timing marks, found them to be good and left it alone.
I do have another issue that maybe somebody can shed a little light on for me. I am always in the habit of lining up the timing marks before...
Does anybody have any experience in how to change the auxiliary chain. I can’t find it listed anywhere or any online videos. I am doing the timing chains now and the other chain is in the kit. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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