Pretty simple job - took me about 90 min but if you regularly work on your car I'd guess you'd do it in half the time.
Here's a few notes for people doing it --
First, its clear my pump wasn't running at all. Applying 12V directly results in nothing. No idea when it failed and I only started looking into this when I got the "cooler efficiency" code under really extreme conditions, which I suppose is a testament to how durable (if not reliable) these rigs are, as well as the flexibility of modern engine management solutions. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to verify yours is working. Either put a mechanic's stethoscope on it while the engine is running (easily reachable from the top) or pull the fuse box cover and jump the big terminals on Relay 15 to power the pump directly.
Pump is located on the driver's side - a little bit to the middle of the car and back from the coolant overflow tank.
1. Lift off the engine cover.
2. Remove the left air cleaner (remove maf connector and pull the power steering reservoir off the bracket first) and the bellows-like tube that goes to the plenum.
3. Service manual suggests removing the hoses from the pump from the top, but I couldn't get a good angle on the hose clamps -- I clamped the hoses shut car-side and pulled the hoses at A) the upper supercharger radiator hose right past the bleed valve and B) the junction where the pump output goes to a T for both of the intercoolers. I think this was advantageous -- when reinstalling, you have the two hoses on the top you can pre-fill with a coolant mixture to prime the pump and eliminate air space. I think I lost 4-6 oz of coolant through the whole job.
3. Go under the car (take safety precautions but you can do this in offroad height). Pull the middle metal cover (4 bolts, I want to say two are M6, two are M8). Pull the pop rivets out on the driver's side plastic cover and remove.
4. Look up and you'll see it.
5. Unplug the electrical connector (the harness has plastic slip clamps that hold it onto two coolant hoses).
6. Pump is held in a little plastic bracket - the side toward driver's is a plastic tab that fits in, and one nut (m4? m6?) on the side closer to the middle of the engine bay.
7. Pull the pump down and out (going to have to angle it a bit).
8. Transfer the inlet and output hoses to the new pump. Mine had white lines on the hoses for alignment - not sure if that was LR's doing or a previous mechanic's.
9. Thread the pump with hoses attached back up. There's a coolant hose running across the engine bay - the input hose goes in front of this hose, the pump outlet hose behind (toward rear of vehicle). I did this from the bottom, you could probably feed the pump down from the top as well, but it'd be a tight fit.
10. Fill the hoses going to the pump with coolant to prime it and reattach the hoses from where you removed them.
11. Put the little plastic bracket back across the pump (the tab is a bit of a pain to get in) and put the nut back on. Reattach the electrical connector and reattach the harness to the nearby coolant hoses.
12. Top up the coolant reservoir if it drained much.
13. I started the engine, let it warm up, then briefly opened the bleed screw at the supercharger radiator outlet. I believe this was enough -- Engine temp 1 slowly rises until about 205 F, then engine temp 2 starts rising, reflecting the thermostat opening. I don't believe any further bleeding was necessary -- I took the car for a ~ 30-minute drive and engine temp 1 never got above 212 degrees F and I had warm air front and rear. Given these cars' sensitivity to overheating, I'm certainly open to different opinions if there’s more for me to do on the bleeding angle?
