E3 plugs

[Chongo]

Now this plug makes more sense than the http://www.pulstarplug.com/

http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/

I haven't tried these E3 plugs, but there is a listing for Land Rovers. Their claims and testing agree with our laws of physics, at least on this planet........... lol
I’ve heard good reviews from neighbors and friends who have tried them, But the only thing I really don’t like about them is that they only come in one heat range for your vehicle, and I’ll bet it is on the hot side for the Rovers listing. Best wishes……… Chongo………….

 

[joey]

They might be good plugs, but not sure I would use them in a D1... maybe a D2 or if you do an ECU update.

 

[1sparrow]

Hi Chongo
Your links do not work on this post. Is it just me ?

 

[Chongo]

Hypertext protocall

For some reasom when the text color is changed it disables the link. Sorry about that.

Chongo

 

[wolf]

Hi Chongo;

I am running with DENSO Iridiums right now and I am very happy with them - they seem just a bit better than NGK Iridiums - but I am always willing to give another plug a whirl in my engine - if you get some positive feedback on these - let me know.

I did have a chance, earlier, to try out the Pulse Plugs (for free) and I have to report that they do not work satisfactorily with a 1997 GEMS controlled 4.00 liter Rover engine. Initially 'HAL' (those of you old enough to remember 2001 Space Oddessy will know that this was the name of the evil computer onboard the space ship) - my name for the GEMS ECU - attempted to throw gallons of gas at the enerpulse plugs - while delivering hard starts; when HAL saw that this did not work - I swear he went to work on the timing and attempted to ****** that ferocious spark. Obviously, gas mileage went down while power did too - not a happy combo! Interestingly enough - the pulse plugs seemed to demand a lot of power from the electrical system too as my otherwise excellent working onboard Scanguage II began to flicker off all the time.

My experiment came to an end after HAL did not settle down with the pulse plugs - even after the better part of a thousand bucks of gas had passed through my Disco's greedy gullet - made considerably greedier by the pulse plugs.

Perhaps, a properly chipped GEMS would work better with these plugs but I don't think I will give them another try as my suspicion is that they are ******* the ignition system.

 

[wolf]

Addendum to the Pulse Plugs

They did throw the occasional code at startup and that was a P1317 - ABS - rough road signal or false misfire fault.

Once the pulse plugs were replaced with my Iridiums - no more codes!

 

[1sparrow]

Again thanks so much Chongo, Working now. Would like to give em' a try in the D1, BUT that Joey is causeing me to pause. What up Joey.

Happy New Year to All

 

[Chongo]

Again thanks so much Chongo, Working now. Would like to give em' a try in the D1, BUT that Joey is causeing me to pause. What up Joey.

Happy New Year to All


In some of my work with Chevy and Ford V-8 engines, whether small blocks or big blocks with conventional style of spark plugs I re - cut the seats on all spark plug holes in the cylinder heads so the plug grounds were all facing the exhaust valves. This yielded a 2% - 3% horsepower gain on the dyno. But the biggest improvement was in the stability of the engine while it was running, any little shakes were gone. One engine was a small block Chevy 350, I cc’d both heads, and ran it before the valve seats were re-cut. It shook a little, as a normal engine does, and at 5000 rpm was pulling around 350 hp naturally aspirated. After cutting the Plug seats to face all plug grounds towards the exhaust. The hp went up to 363 and @ 5000 rpm you could almost place a wine glass on it, It ran that smooth. Then I opened the plug gap from .045” to .065” with the Chevy stock HEI ignition and this threw the engine over 380 HP at the crank on the dyno. Then I went to a colder heat range plug, this allowed me to advance my timing almost 6 degrees with out pre ignition and yielded me well over 400 hp at the crank……… yes, plugs make a difference!

Now with that said, GM’s HEI system can handle the larger gap to a point. I don’t know if Land Rover will, it may be too hard on the coil pack, I don’t know what kind of safety factor Bosch engineered in it, or what the stock coil pack parameters are. But I guess I’ll find out, my Bosch Iridiums are gaped at .065” and I’ll have to admit, it was one of the alterations I did that really woke it up. It’s gone over 5,000 miles since. Yes heavy gaps on plugs is a well known HP secret, just read some of Smokey Yunnicks work on the small blocks.

My favorite plugs, I tend to lean away from these so called voodoo
Plugs I’m more concerned about the heat range of the plug more than anything.
I’m not practicing what I preach here using the bosch Iridiums, My wife chose these plugs, but they seem to be in a tolerable heat range for my engine, more colder than hot. I was almost convinced I was going to be throwing these plugs out, but they work, and well, But only on my engine, not on a stock Rover engine, I wouldn’t recommend it, and my engine is anything but stock.

This is where Joey is totally right in what he is saying to use the cheap champions. He is saving you some money, and the hot heat range that the stock Champion plugs have burns off the oil the engine digest, through the breather system. This is why Land Rover engines need to have a periodical seafoam treatments. “ You gotta love the EPA for this one. “
This doesn’t mean you can’t mess around with the plug gap, or different plugs………… For a stock Land Rover engines, whether you use Campion or another brand, you need to match the heat range as close as possible, or engine fouling will result. Heat range is the most important issue.
You might find this thread helpful in choosing a plug.

http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11849

No two engines run alike, and your engine may perform better with other plugs. You’ll have to experiment with this, and sometimes this isn’t cheap, and sometimes you already had the best plug when you started.
I’m personally fond of DENSO, NGK and AUTOLITE.

I hope this helps…….
Happy new years to all……….

Chongo

 

[wolf]

Again thanks so much Chongo, Working now. Would like to give em' a try in the D1, BUT that Joey is causeing me to pause. What up Joey.

Happy New Year to All


In some of my work with Chevy and Ford V-8 engines, whether small blocks or big blocks with conventional style of spark plugs I re - cut the seats on all spark plug holes in the cylinder heads so the plug grounds were all facing the exhaust valves. This yielded a 2% - 3% horsepower gain on the dyno. But the biggest improvement was in the stability of the engine while it was running, any little shakes were gone. One engine was a small block Chevy 350, I cc’d both heads, and ran it before the valve seats were re-cut. It shook a little, as a normal engine does, and at 5000 rpm was pulling around 350 hp naturally aspirated. After cutting the Plug seats to face all plug grounds towards the exhaust. The hp went up to 363 and @ 5000 rpm you could almost place a wine glass on it, It ran that smooth. Then I opened the plug gap from .045” to .065” with the Chevy stock HEI ignition and this threw the engine over 380 HP at the crank on the dyno. Then I went to a colder heat range plug, this allowed me to advance my timing almost 6 degrees with out pre ignition and yielded me well over 400 hp at the crank……… yes, plugs make a difference!

Now with that said, GM’s HEI system can handle the larger gap to a point. I don’t know if Land Rover will, it may be too hard on the coil pack, I don’t know what kind of safety factor Bosch engineered in it, or what the stock coil pack parameters are. But I guess I’ll find out, my Bosch Iridiums are gaped at .065” and I’ll have to admit, it was one of the alterations I did that really woke it up. It’s gone over 5,000 miles since. Yes heavy gaps on plugs is a well known HP secret, just read some of Smokey Yunnicks work on the small blocks.

My favorite plugs, I tend to lean away from these so called voodoo
Plugs I’m more concerned about the heat range of the plug more than anything.
I’m not practicing what I preach here using the bosch Iridiums, My wife chose these plugs, but they seem to be in a tolerable heat range for my engine, more colder than hot. I was almost convinced I was going to be throwing these plugs out, but they work, and well, But only on my engine, not on a stock Rover engine, I wouldn’t recommend it, and my engine is anything but stock.

This is where Joey is totally right in what he is saying to use the cheap champions. He is saving you some money, and the hot heat range that the stock Champion plugs have burns off the oil the engine digest, through the breather system. This is why Land Rover engines need to have a periodical seafoam treatments. “ You gotta love the EPA for this one. “
This doesn’t mean you can’t mess around with the plug gap, or different plugs………… For a stock Land Rover engines, whether you use Campion or another brand, you need to match the heat range as close as possible, or engine fouling will result. Heat range is the most important issue.
You might find this thread helpful in choosing a plug.

http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11849

No two engines run alike, and your engine may perform better with other plugs. You’ll have to experiment with this, and sometimes this isn’t cheap, and sometimes you already had the best plug when you started.
I’m personally fond of DENSO, NGK and AUTOLITE.

I hope this helps…….
Happy new years to all……….

Chongo

Hi Chongo;

This all makes perfect sense - let me know how your coil paks are doing down the road with that big gap; I am willing to experiment but I don't want to replace coil paks every othere week.