2012 LR4 Slow suspension leak...?

[nolift911]

Seems to take a couple of days but the front end drops first - then the rear - over 1-2 days.

First thing to check for a leak?

 

[morrisdl]

Measure each corner hub to fender height. Pull EAS brain fuse(F26E) or leave a door open to prevent self-leveling. Let sit until there is measurable differences. If one corner sinks most, one axle both sides, or entire truck equally, is three different possible issues. Report back the findings and how long it took to sink.

 

[mklinker]

The front end dropping is usually the front valve block. It is located inside the front right wheel well. The part costs 100-200, that is a good place to start if you suspect a front end air suspension leak.

https://www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-suspension-parts/RVH000095G/

Do what morrisdl said first though.

 

[morrisdl]

I just replaced my front block for 2nd time....If that is the problem, then best practice is to also good to rebuild the desiccant in the air compressor. The desiccant beads tend to pulverize into a fine powder that gums up the blocks. I just did that too ;-)

 

[avslash]

On a related note, has anyone found a good source for the "voss" connectors that screw the air lines into the blocks and struts?

Dealer charges on those is nuts for what they are, so I am scouting around for another supplier.

 

[morrisdl]

ALSO: I have also been meaning to find a repair splice kit. If anyone has a suggestion what/where to buy, I appreciated it.

 

[avslash]

ALSO: I have also been meaning to find a repair splice kit. If anyone has a suggestion what/where to buy, I appreciated it.

Two double-ended quick couplers that are sized appropriately (I think it is 6mm) a few feet of tubing and a sharp knife is all you need.


Green Oval Experience in AUS used to sell one, but I am sure you can source the couplers from somewhere domestically, as well. Shouldn't be more than a few bucks.

 

[morrisdl]

Huh; The LR couplers are $20ea. Finding alternates that rated for upto 200psi is not easy.

 

[maxx4wd]

one side note - if you determine you have a bad valve block then you don't have to replace the whole thing (yes its easy but overly expensive) you could just buy a replacement o-ring kit (sold by britishpartsofutah.com) and possibly others as well...kit fits perfectly and you can rebuild all three valve blocks for something like 25 bucks. The only real wear items in the blocks are the o-rings and its a fairly easy process once the valve blocks are removed - just a few screws and something to clean off the dessicant dust on internal pistons with...it takes maybe an extra 20 min. per block

https://www.britishpartsofutah.com/Range-Rover-Sport-LR3-LR4-Valve-Block-Seal-O-Ring-p/rcrvhk.htm

 

[maxx4wd]

On a related note, has anyone found a good source for the "voss" connectors that screw the air lines into the blocks and struts?

Dealer charges on those is nuts for what they are, so I am scouting around for another supplier.

I know arnott sells them separately as I accidentally lost one when I replaced my fronts - I believe they are the same thread size as the stock struts (haven't verified if they fit the stock blocks) but it would be a pretty easy source to check and carry the proper psi rating for the system. I found a couple on amazon but they turned out to be cheap chinese garbage...kept them for a trail fix if I was desperate and would probably work to get me home but doubt they'd hold up for long after that.