Bad wheel bearing

[cmb6s]

Lol. According to the workshop manual, 258lb-ft (350Nm) is correct. Break out the xxxlong extension handle.

 

[roverman]

Thanks for the confirmation!

 

[roverman]

Well, that wasn't too hard. Kind of a pain to knock off the old hub but other than that not too much to it. Took a couple hours, probably can whittle 1/2 hour off that when the next one goes.

 

[CMGRover]

Is it 100% required to replace the axle nut? No dealer within 3 hours and not sure if parts places would have the nut.

 

[roverman]

I'm not going to be the one to say it's not necessary, and I don't usually change the oil drain plug, haha.
It actually probably isn't totally necessary, but it's available online. If you have a day or two, I'd suggest getting it. Very cheap insurance.

 

[thorgal]

Is it 100% required to replace the axle nut? No dealer within 3 hours and not sure if parts places would have the nut.

Changing hub nuts IS necessary and you do NOT want to skip this step. This will be the only part that keeps your entire wheel attached to your vehicle.
Also Torque specs for a wheel nut were revised a few years back, from 350 Nm to a 230 Nm.You can read about it on the British forum.

 

[roverman]

After thinking about it, I realize that I basically reused the nut. I torqued it to 230, and knocked the flange into the keyway, then decided that there was way more evidence that 350 was correct, so I tightened some more and hammered a new part of the flange into the keyway. Due to it being a new part of the flange, I'm comfortable that it's staying put.

I'm not sure about the british forum, but the SKF bearing page says 350 (258 ft/lb), and the land rover workshop manual says the same.

 

[cmb6s]

That's not considered "reuse" in my opinion since you never torqued it to it's full value. Threads on these sorts of high torque nuts/bolts are designed to stretch a little bit (they're a little pliable). All you did was under-stretch them, then continue to stretch them at a later time. The big no-no would be if you torqued (especially if you torqued all the way to spec), then removed and then tried to retorque to spec. This would result in a nut that had stretched already which can very often cause a sheared bolt/stripped nut when you try to restretch. Make sense?

 

[roverman]

Yep, good to know - thanks!

 

[CMGRover]

Does anyone have the spec on the bolt? Should any auto parts place have them?