I am in the middle of performing this service on my 2015 LR4 SCV6 to replace a leaky rear crossover pipe (heater manifold pipe). An indy shop replaced the front pipes, hoses, water pump and thermostat, but regretably did not service the rear pipe. I would recommend anyone removing manifold/Supercharger to do cooling system repairs/maintenance to replace front + rear simultaneously as 90% of the labor is removing everything on top. I wish I had been more educated on this particular engine and the likelihood of failure of these plastic components when I took it to the shop - they were representing themselves as LR "experts", in which case they should've recommended replacing 1 more $100 part while performing close to $3k worth of service on the front components - but you live and learn.
Thanks to txfromwi for the detailed video describing this process - an invaluable resource while performing this work. I have a few points to add from my experiences:
1. The electrical connector at the back of the driver's side cylinder bank is a real bugger for sure. I didn't spend 4-5hrs luckily. Was able to get a good view using cell phone camera and pick tools to pry the clip, but was almost certain I was going to break it and have to order a new one/splice together. Luckily it just popped off and the plastic somehow remained intact - but I attribute this to luck more than skill or patience. It's a ***** - just get it off and plan on possibly replacing.
2. The coolant hose that is clipped to the bottom of the Supercharger and connects to the rear crossover pipe is the other item that could easily get overlooked before attempting to remove the SC. The best method IMO would be to disconnect the small hose clamp at the top of the crossover pipe/manifold before removing the SC. If you connect that hose from the front, you will still have to disconnect those clips at the bottom before pulling out the SC, which is a bit difficult to do while holding the weight of the SC. Plus those clips will definitely break. If you remove the hose from the rear crossover first, it will come out as a unit and you won't have to mess with the clips on the bottom of the SC.
3. I took the advice of replacing the supercharger coupler while I'm in here. My snout was an extreme PITA to get off the SC body. I used some penetrating oil around the guide pins and entire mating surface which helped greatly, and there is a good pry point on top of the snout, directly to the right of the pry point that txfromwi used, that has a larger flat surface, and a protrusion in the body casting that helps get extra leverage if using a screwdriver-style pry bar that doesn't have a 90 degree angle on the head like the one in the video.
4. My SC coupler was fully intact - no broken plastic - but regardless the shaft was badly scored where the torsion spring "pinches" down on it. The shaft can only rotate so much within the spring, but enough to score it badly over time. I am changing to the nylon oil-filled version, so hopefully the scoring will not be an issue down the road. I guess if the balance is off enough, it could cause excessive vibration to the SC bearings - I'm hoping mine isn't so out of balance that this becomes an issue. I was also unable to locate the Genuine coupler directly from superchargersonline as suggested in the video - I found it here on ebay sold by "Quality Superchargers". The part has a "SCOL" (superchargers online) logo on it, so I am assuming they are one in the same - just noting for anyone looking for it directly on the SCOL website.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125379092325 Attached are some photos of my coupler and scoring on the shaft.
Thanks again and good luck to all!
