Key fob and key shank re-programming issues

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Houm_WA

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MYTH DE-BUNKED:

I have successfully replaced my key remote for around $200 by purchasing one from British Parts Utah ($135+shipping) and having it re-programmed at the dealer ($92+tax). I did have to replace the blade using my old blade. This involved simply knocking out a roll pin.

I now have 3 remotes with 2 blades; 2 of which have dead batteries. Next will be to see if I can re-vive one of the dead or nearly-dead batteries by taking it on a long drive.

Two lessons learned:

1. You must purchase a remote that has NEVER been programmed before.
2. You must have ALL remotes with you at the time of programming.
 

alzerom

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Huom WA is correct. Unlike a previous poster who believed EEPROMs were used, they are not. They are burn once chips. At a dealership, they may ask you to demonstrate the vehicle is yours with registration in your name and photo ID. It happened to me in Raleigh NC.

Incidentally all these keys can be hacked to gain entry but not start the vehicle. The driver still needs a blade to start it.
 

Houm_WA

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If they are burn once, why do the ALL need to be present when re-programmed?
 

alzerom

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Because the new key is randomly generated OR, the old key is the "source" of the key code. An easy algorithm to perform. During programing the operator is prompted to press the button on the old key.
 

acsubie

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Both my remotes seem to have dead or nearly dead batteries and I can not use them to open or close the doors using the buttons, I have to manually open the door. Anyway to revive my remotes or am I stuck buying new remotes?
 

alzerom

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Open them up carefully, read the number on the battery and go buy a new battery.
 

acsubie

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Any tips on opening? They seem sealed pretty tight and I don't see a seam
 

hell pie

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One of my remotes was intermittent; it wouldn't work until I lighty tapped it. I originally thought the battery was dying, so I opened up the the fob to test the battery. It turned out the battery was good, but it wasn't making proper contact with the circuit board. The connections had sheared, most likely from the remote being dropped numerous times over the years. I resoldered the nubs of the contacts that were left and put a small zip tie around the battery to aid in the connection. The remote works flawlessly now.

I should add that taking the remote apart was quite difficult. If you are going to do it, I recommend finding leverage in the area where the key pivots out of, which is what the fellow on disco3 suggests. I am going to have to do some cosmetic surgery on mine as there is now a rather nasty scar.
 

bbyer

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usually blood too

I should add that taking the remote apart was quite difficult. If you are going to do it, I recommend finding leverage in the area where the key pivots out of, which is what the fellow on disco3 suggests. I am going to have to do some cosmetic surgery on mine as there is now a rather nasty scar.

Usually the scar is on the owner and the blood is on the remote. The remote was not designed to be taken apart; hence the process can be almost as unpleasant as paying another three to four hundred dollars for a replacement.
 

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