Lr4 Brakes

[p-dawger]

You recommend the cryogenic hardened rotors? I see them on the website for $142 for the front which is definetely cheaper than the dealer and if it lasts longer this is a no-brainer!

Snake oil. Unless you are racing your LR4 in the 24 hr LeMans...cryo rotors are for racing applications....and no they are not for your average street car. They will do nothing for you. Cryo also depends on "how" they were cryo'ed - if done correctly I doubt they would be affordable. Beware of cheap "cryo" rotors.

Realize that the only way to benefit from cryo treating is use the brakes super hard for long periods of time. For an LR4 going 20 miles to the office daily and cooling down for 8 hrs., there is no benefit whatever over standard rotors.

LR4 has excellent brakes - if they are pulsing - lugs too tight. Replace rotors and torque lugs to the correct value. DO NOT let the dealer torque your lugs with the impact gun.

To that end do not fall for slotted or drilled or cross slotted drilled with muffler bearings rotor bling. Drilled rotors if not designed in (as in cast with the rotor itself) not just drilled by some monkey with a fancy press - will CRACK and will FAIL with the weight of a 6000lb + SUV. Do not do this. Slots are for out gassing and water replacement during stopping. These simply have no place (unless on a performance oriented vehicle and made for the application) on a 3 ton SUV. Read dangerous.

 

[p-dawger]

My wifes 2010 LR4 12,623 miles ...Needed new front and rear rotors and pads ... 1740$
My brothers wifes lr4 13.250 same brake issue, A man at my kids school ...same thing

After just trading in a 2008 sport with 26,000 miles that only needed its front pads replaced once i cant blame my wives driving

anyone driving on there original pads and rotors with 12,000 miles or more ?

It's your driving style and your brothers wife's driving style and the man at school....yup his driving style too.

LR pads and rotors are designed to work in a "large market" (like North America) to deal with varying temps and conditions - read all climates and weather.

If you drive to and from work in heavy traffic every year 50 miles a day in stop and go traffic - only - yes 12k is about right.

I have mixed highway and city and I am at 23k with about half pad life left.

 

[suvowner]

Snake oil. Unless you are racing your LR4 in the 24 hr LeMans...cryo rotors are for racing applications....and no they are not for your average street car. They will do nothing for you. Cryo also depends on "how" they were cryo'ed - if done correctly I doubt they would be affordable. Beware of cheap "cryo" rotors.

Realize that the only way to benefit from cryo treating is use the brakes super hard for long periods of time. For an LR4 going 20 miles to the office daily and cooling down for 8 hrs., there is no benefit whatever over standard rotors.

LR4 has excellent brakes - if they are pulsing - lugs too tight. Replace rotors and torque lugs to the correct value. DO NOT let the dealer torque your lugs with the impact gun.

To that end do not fall for slotted or drilled or cross slotted drilled with muffler bearings rotor bling. Drilled rotors if not designed in (as in cast with the rotor itself) not just drilled by some monkey with a fancy press - will CRACK and will FAIL with the weight of a 6000lb + SUV. Do not do this. Slots are for out gassing and water replacement during stopping. These simply have no place (unless on a performance oriented vehicle and made for the application) on a 3 ton SUV. Read dangerous.

http://forums.landroverworld.org/showthread.php?t=20115

 

[p-dawger]

http://forums.landroverworld.org/showthread.php?t=20115

There is a nice tidbit in that post that contains factual information...

"The LR4 stock front rotors are huge at 360mm diameter and 29.99mm thick. They are heavy too at 26.45 pounds"

This is precisely what contributes to excellent braking - thermal mass along with the capacity for heat dissapation.

That is all there is to brakes....period.

The more force (brake torque, a function of the caliper) will stop you quicker, and thermal mass will dissapate the heat faster - over and over and over.

No amount of holes(drilling holes actually reduces thermal mass sginificantly) or freezing the rotor will change this.

Those holes also if not cast in....as in no vane structure to support the holes underneath will crack and badly, very rapidly...again frozen or not.

Why pay more and get less than nothing? Get the OEM rotors cheaper, and be safe.

Most folks on this forum have their vehicles serviced...they are not hands on. So if the dealer torques your lug nuts to 150 ft lbs....when your rotors heat up they will warp.

You don't see too many techs at the dealership hand torqueing wheels these days...

If I torque frozen or drilled or slotted rotors to 150 ft lbs, they will warp guaranteed. If you heat up drilled rotors over and over (especially rotors not intended to be drilled) to the point of failure - they will fail. Spectacularly.

 

[LR4mywife]

Lots of good info here! One quick question for you (purely out of my curiosity) is, "what should the wheels be torqued to"? I'm about to take my LR4 in to the dealer for it's first oil change, and I was going to have them rotate the wheels. It's be kind of cool (let alone smart) for me to request that they "torque" the lugs to *** during the procedure and see what they say.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[p-dawger]

Lots of good info here! One quick question for you (purely out of my curiosity) is, "what should the wheels be torqued to"? I'm about to take my LR4 in to the dealer for it's first oil change, and I was going to have them rotate the wheels. It's be kind of cool (let alone smart) for me to request that they "torque" the lugs to *** during the procedure and see what they say.

Thanks,

Joe

Owners Manual

 

[lexman34]

Snake oil. Unless you are racing your LR4 in the 24 hr LeMans...cryo rotors are for racing applications....and no they are not for your average street car. They will do nothing for you. Cryo also depends on "how" they were cryo'ed - if done correctly I doubt they would be affordable. Beware of cheap "cryo" rotors.

Realize that the only way to benefit from cryo treating is use the brakes super hard for long periods of time. For an LR4 going 20 miles to the office daily and cooling down for 8 hrs., there is no benefit whatever over standard rotors.

LR4 has excellent brakes - if they are pulsing - lugs too tight. Replace rotors and torque lugs to the correct value. DO NOT let the dealer torque your lugs with the impact gun.

To that end do not fall for slotted or drilled or cross slotted drilled with muffler bearings rotor bling. Drilled rotors if not designed in (as in cast with the rotor itself) not just drilled by some monkey with a fancy press - will CRACK and will FAIL with the weight of a 6000lb + SUV. Do not do this. Slots are for out gassing and water replacement during stopping. These simply have no place (unless on a performance oriented vehicle and made for the application) on a 3 ton SUV. Read dangerous.

Thanks. Your reply makes sense and is very informative. I just have to accept that every 15k..these pads will need to be changed and possibly every 2 years the rotors as well. My biggest task should be is how to learn how to change my own brakes but alas i am not too good with these types of things but everything can be learned. I am wondering if there is a Youtube video showing a step by step process? Can't wish for the world i suppose!

 

[CUCO]

44000 km with all original.

 

[baobay]

Any aftermarket pads available for the LR4?

 

[1badrover]

Ours is at 15k, all pads and rotors look good. Thinking we'll get to 45k with the pads.
I don't see a lot of wear on the rotors, just normal scraches. Might be a few thousands deep. Can't tell at this point why they wouldn't go 100k plus.
We probably drive highway 70% / 30% city. Pulling a 5,000lb boat/trailer , can hardly tell it's back there even stopping from highway speeds. Same boat pushed the Durango so hard when stopping, I stopped pulling it over 55mph.
LR must have had a bad batch of brakes...some got them, some didn't ???