Lr4 Brakes

[ftillier]

I didn't need to replace the sensor when I did my rear brake pads, as the pads weren't worn out (some of the pad material had detached from the backing plate), no issues so far.

 

[f1racer328]

If what I read is correct, the sensors won't need to be replaced since the indicator light in the dash isn't on.

Correct, however the plastic can become somewhat brittle and you can break them if you're not careful when you pull them out.

 

[powershift]

For compressing the caliper piston(s), in the past I have used a C-Clamp with the old brake pad and compressed the piston that way. I see at FCP Euro they have tools that are caliper specific to compress the piston(s) but are like $100 for a name brand. Would an old school C-Clamp and an old brake pad work for the front and rear calipers?

 

[mm3846]

For compressing the caliper piston(s), in the past I have used a C-Clamp with the old brake pad and compressed the piston that way. I see at FCP Euro they have tools that are caliper specific to compress the piston(s) but are like $100 for a name brand. Would an old school C-Clamp and an old brake pad work for the front and rear calipers?

I used a c-clamp and a piece of angle iron I had laying around

 

[powershift]

I save a few hundred by avoiding the dealer and still bought quality parts from FCP Euro. I bought front rotors too and still saved hundreds. I appreciate all the help. The Zimmermann rotors are not made in China, they are made in Germany and are high carbon steel with rust preventative coating. The pads I think might be OEM compound and the compound didn't have any description at all but the brand is good.

 

[ftillier]

I used a c-clamp and a piece of angle iron I had laying around

I have a special tool that I got for my VW where the parking brake is integrated into the rear caliper and requires the piston to be rotated while retracting - impossible to do with a C-clamp. Just be careful retracting the piston and keep an eye on brake fluid reservoir fill level - you don't want to overflow. I often put a bleed hose and crack the bleeder screw while pushing the piston back.

 

[ryanjl]

I've always used a classic C-Clamp and an old brake pad to compress the caliper. Maybe the special tool makes the procedure a little less clumsy and a bit more elegant? No idea. But I'd only be interested in that special tool if I was doing this job for a living; not doing it once every few years like I do.

The Ferodo brake pads are the OEM pads.

 

[f1racer328]

I use this with an old brake pad. Don't forget to remove the cap from the fluid reservoir. I'm sure a c clamp is also fine. Our caliper pistons don't need to be rotated or anything.

Disc Brake Pad Piston Compressor

Amazing deals on this Disc Brake Pad Piston Compressor at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

The only trickier part with the rear brakes were un-tensioning the parking brake shoes. I just watched the Atlantic British video on rear brakes.

 

[powershift]

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[powershift]

I put the Ferodo brand compound on today with new metal clips and bolts. I bed them on the existing rotors because I couldn't remove them to put on the new Zimmerman rotors on. I tried beating on the rotor hard with a hammer and my ears started to hurt from the noise so I caved and just cleaned the rotors and then swapped the pads only.

After I bed the pads I ran errands for a while and the brakes started squeaking at 5 MPH or less. They didn't do that before. They squeak when maneuvering and braking in a parking lot. The pads I pulled off there probably had 30k left on them front and rear and were the Land Rover brand.

I feel like putting the old pads and clips back on to see if the noise goes away. I also thought about putting the old clips back on because the new clips didn't fit as well but seemed to work. Could the clips cause the vibration or noise? Any tips to quiet the brakes down?