Lr4 Brakes
- Thread starter daveny
- Start date
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powershift
Full Access Member
It had the round metal weight mounted to the pad backing plate that I installed on the upside and outer side for the fronts. There weren't any shims aside from what was already stuck onto the backing plate for the compound, I guess it could have been a plastic shim. It wasn't bare metal for sure.
There was one sticky pad for each caliper that I put on the outside. The pad compound was shaped differently and looked like less swept area, but I didn't know how to calculate it to be sure. The compound probably is the same. It did look identical in color and texture. It seems to have the same bite and modulation, there was no change in braking performance.
I tried bedding the pads again this morning and didn't hear any squeaks, but I don't think I got them hot enough since it was 39F but couldn't get them to make any noise. I did reverse braking too, didn't hear a squeak. Then I get home after cooling them off and while backing into my spot...squeak as I come to a stop lol. I was thinking about swapping the old pads back on since I pulled them out of the trash but I'm hopeful the Ferodos might actually quiet down. I'm going to give it a couple weeks.
Did you deglaze and cross hatch the rotors with emery cloth when you swapped the pads? If you reused the rotors the surfaces are no longer 100% flat. It will take awhile for the pad to shape to the old rotor. What was the problem getting the old rotors off?
f1racer328
Full Access Member
You removed the T50 torx bolt correct?
And to get the rears off you have to completely untension the parking brake assembly. Mine were somewhat of a pain.
And to get the rears off you have to completely untension the parking brake assembly. Mine were somewhat of a pain.
powershift
Full Access Member
The front rotors were in good condition and I didn't need to replace them nor the pads even though I bought new ones. That is what I get for not checking first. Carfax reported the pads having 20k miles on them but looked like only 10k of wear missing. The front rotor surfaces looked good, no glaze at all and just a little wear.
Its only the right front and rear right that is squealing now. I'm not sure what the issue is removing the rear rotors. For the fronts I didn't have the right caliper mounting bracket socket so I couldn't remove the rotors on the fronts. I've never had a rotor bolted on before, but after removing the bolt the rotor was frozen to the hubs. I beat on it with the back side of a hatchet to remove it. I hit around the hub area and then beat the rotor itself coming from behind to hit it off the hub. Maybe a ball-peen hammer would be better?
I did remove the rotor mounting bolt and backed off the star wheel as far as it would go. The rotor spun ok by hand but the drum might have still been rubbing the shoes. I bought a propane torch, I'm going to try again in a week or two but heat it up this time. Not sure what else to try. I'm definitely going to use ear plugs before beating on the rotor this time lol.
There's a procedure with the iid tool to put the parking brake into servicing position that I think you must do to get the rear rotors off.
powershift
Full Access Member
Ah, that is probably it. The manual says "Using the Land Rover approved diagnostic system, drive the parking brake to the mounting position." and I researched that to mean to fully retract the parking brake. So that is why the rear rotors were stuck on there.
powershift
Full Access Member
Does putting the parking brake into the mounting position back the shoes off further than when the star wheel is backed all the way off?
I believe so: the actuator works on one side of the pads, the adjuster wheel on the other. At least that's how the drum brakes on my beetle worked!
