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It had the round metal weight mounted to the pad backing plate that I installed on the upside and outer side for the fronts. There weren't any shims aside from what was already stuck onto the backing plate for the compound, I guess it could have been a plastic shim. It wasn't bare metal for sure.The Ferodos are the OEM pad, so not sure why they'd make a difference.
Did the new Ferodos you put on have the plastic shims on the back? The round metal weight?
The front rotors were in good condition and I didn't need to replace them nor the pads even though I bought new ones. That is what I get for not checking first. Carfax reported the pads having 20k miles on them but looked like only 10k of wear missing. The front rotor surfaces looked good, no glaze at all and just a little wear.Did you deglaze and cross hatch the rotors with emery cloth when you swapped the pads? If you reused the rotors the surfaces are no longer 100% flat. It will take awhile for the pad to shape to the old rotor. What was the problem getting the old rotors off?
You removed the T50 torx bolt correct?
And to get the rears off you have to completely untension the parking brake assembly. Mine were somewhat of a pain.
Ah, that is probably it. The manual says "Using the Land Rover approved diagnostic system, drive the parking brake to the mounting position." and I researched that to mean to fully retract the parking brake. So that is why the rear rotors were stuck on there.There's a procedure with the iid tool to put the parking brake into servicing position that I think you must do to get the rear rotors off.
Does putting the parking brake into the mounting position back the shoes off further than when the star wheel is backed all the way off?Backing the parking shoe adjuster off usually works. Also a BFH. A 5 or 8 lb. Coming off this way they won't be able to be resused.