LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

[mpinco]

......Final note: **** retentive guys will tell you not to use a thread cutting tap, but rather special thread-chasing taps, designed especially for cleaning and not cutting new threads, again, to prevent the risk of cross-threading. .......

Yup

Craftsman 48 pc. SAE & Metric Thread Restorer Kit

Manufactured by the same supplier to Snap-on

Snap On vs. Craftsman Thread Restoring Kit

 

[Pfunk951]

This looks worthwhile, I see the logic in a dirty thread messing up the final torque readings. When I did the diffs, the thread sealer was setting off the torque wrench before the fill plug was all the way in..!

No luck on any fluid locally, so I ordered 8 quarts from Denver, should be here Monday or Tuesday.. Got an ear full of ZF fluid knowledge from their tech, he stated that Febi Bilstein and Lifeguard 6 are nearly identical (both carry LR part #s), and that Land Rover is smoking-banana-peels crazy to state that these transmissions are "filled for life" under normal circumstances..

RyanJl, you busy next week? If we survive this ice storm I might need a hand..

Mike

 

[ryanjl]

I could help Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday night (after 6). Thursday I go out of town and don't get back until late Sunday.

 

[Pfunk951]

Ryanjl: Cool, I'll keep you in the loop..

Question: the 307-452 fill plug tool is just an 8mm hex, correct?

I'm trying to iron out any miscellaneous tools I'll need for to the job, so I can start the write-up with a tool list.

Mike

 

[stufrowin]

Yeah I believe it was just 8mm hex but you'll want one with a drive attachment to fit your torque wrench. (vs a regular L shaped one) forgot what the suggested torque was but not much.

 

[stufrowin]

Not sure if your planning on removing the engine mount but if you are make sure you have about 3ft of extension on your 1/2 inch drive, I bought one prior to this project after watching the video and it was a life saver.

 

[Pfunk951]

I'll jack the engine as a last resort, the instructions that came with the kit seem to display that I can pull the pan out (after the sump tube is cut) with the engine still down of the mounts. This might require dental tools to get at all of those pan bolts, but I'll see if it's manageable.

In a perfect world, I am hoping to:

1. Jack up the truck, remove the transmission cover and associated bracket.
2. Drain fluid, remove transmission pan bolts and lower the pan as far as possible.
3. Cut filter neck, slide pan out and remove rest of filter neck.
4. Clean the threaded holes with my fancy new thread chaser tap (thanks Quijote).
5. Install the new filter, slide in the new pan and replace hardware.
6. Fill the transmission per the FSM, and install transmission cover and bracket.
7. Drive over the wife's Prius to celebrate, and post the write-up to this forum.

The FSM talks about removing the shifter linkage, I'm not sure I have to do that if I'm only dropping the pan..

Feel free to give that list a sanity check, I don't remember much from when I did the TC fluid and it might be tighter than I remember..

Mike

 

[Pfunk951]

So I poked my head under the truck today and found this:

That's the transmission pan. Isn't there supposed to be a cover over that? The FSM shows one- did all of the LR4s come with these?? I'm semi concerned about it not being there..

It pan job looks like it'll be tight, but do-able. It looks like the pan can come down about 2.5-3 inches in the back... Maybe 1.5 inches in the front..

Mike

 

[Mrs_Warman]

Loosen the right hand engine mount then jack the engine up until the pan neck can come out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[stufrowin]

My LR4 didn't have a cover either maybe just an LR3 thing like the video showed.

I wouldn't be too concerned yours looks relatively clean.

I'm curious if you can get to all the pan bolts, I didn't look or think about checking until I had exhaust and mount undone already.