I know this thread has been around before but, I think I have a unique situation. I have been getting the "range change not available fault" and others (Reduced traction, Apply Parking Brake, Special programs not available, HDC not available) for about three months and it's not the battery. I already changed that, twice. Here goes an explanation of what I'm seeing
First, if I only drive frequent short trips (to work every day, less than two miles) nothing MORE, every thing is fine. Extend the drive to about 5 or six miles and the "RANGE CHANGE NOT AVAILABLE" fault lights up. Stop, restart, light comes right back on. Park overnight, light is off in the morning. Drive more than about 15 minutes, light back on.
Second, if it sits more than three days without starting, all of the waring lights come on just like they do when you need a new battery. If I disconnect the battery and hold the cables together, I can clear most of the faults and the others will go away with about 20 minutes of driving and three or four more start cycles. Except of course the Range Change Not Available because now we fall back under the first situation
Here is what isn't wrong. The alternator puts out 14.2 volts at start up and then settles in at about 13.6. In sleep mode the computer draws .0016 volts (or something like that???) , not enough to make a battery go dead in three days Like I said, I put in two new batteries thinking that the first was faulty. I put in the second before I did the draw down test.
To make this a real Land Rover brain teaser, all of the systems work (until the faults occur). I can change range, raise and lower suspension, and switch to special programs. Because everything "can" work, I doubt I have a wiring problem. The Range Change issue seems to be heat related so my first thought was that it could be the range change position sensor but, that doesn't explain the problems that occur when the vehicle sits. That leads me to think I might have a bad Integrated Transfer Box Control Module. I saw in the workshop manual that that module is always powered so maybe it's become overly sensitive to voltage drops. Does anyone else have any ideas??? I'd like to go to the dealer with some idea as to what it could be. I know that new transfer box modules need to be calibrated after installation so this will likely end up being a dealer repair in the end.
First, if I only drive frequent short trips (to work every day, less than two miles) nothing MORE, every thing is fine. Extend the drive to about 5 or six miles and the "RANGE CHANGE NOT AVAILABLE" fault lights up. Stop, restart, light comes right back on. Park overnight, light is off in the morning. Drive more than about 15 minutes, light back on.
Second, if it sits more than three days without starting, all of the waring lights come on just like they do when you need a new battery. If I disconnect the battery and hold the cables together, I can clear most of the faults and the others will go away with about 20 minutes of driving and three or four more start cycles. Except of course the Range Change Not Available because now we fall back under the first situation
Here is what isn't wrong. The alternator puts out 14.2 volts at start up and then settles in at about 13.6. In sleep mode the computer draws .0016 volts (or something like that???) , not enough to make a battery go dead in three days Like I said, I put in two new batteries thinking that the first was faulty. I put in the second before I did the draw down test.
To make this a real Land Rover brain teaser, all of the systems work (until the faults occur). I can change range, raise and lower suspension, and switch to special programs. Because everything "can" work, I doubt I have a wiring problem. The Range Change issue seems to be heat related so my first thought was that it could be the range change position sensor but, that doesn't explain the problems that occur when the vehicle sits. That leads me to think I might have a bad Integrated Transfer Box Control Module. I saw in the workshop manual that that module is always powered so maybe it's become overly sensitive to voltage drops. Does anyone else have any ideas??? I'd like to go to the dealer with some idea as to what it could be. I know that new transfer box modules need to be calibrated after installation so this will likely end up being a dealer repair in the end.
