Michael Gain
Full Access Member
So, I am getting vibration in the steering wheel. Sometimes it starts around 30mph, but most certainly appears at 50mph and does not go away. If I put the transmission in neutral, the vibration stays--speed dependent and not RPM dependent. However, I do not feel it while accelerating. This did not happen before the two cylinder misfire caused by the injectors, but appeared after the injectors, ignition coils, and plugs were replaced. I did have to drive the vehicle home (about 12 miles) on the misfire, but I am not sure if that damaged something in the transaxle....I also replaced the supercharger snout and coupler, intake manifold and intercooler gaskets, and the rear cross-over pipe, but do not think that would be related.
I dropped it off at an indy last week. They kept it a couple of days but could not find an issue. I called a closer mechanic, but they (and I quote) stated, "We'll pass" and would not even look at it
The original indy checked for an exhaust manifold leak, checked the fan, and they checked all of the suspension components. They stated that all of that was good.
To date, I have replaced the rear drive shaft, the front UCA / LCA / Wheel bearings / sway bar bushings / sway bar end links / inner and outer tie rods. I have not touched the rear suspension, but did replace the rear diff pinion seal.
For the sake of sanity, the vehicle is aligned and the wheels were road force balanced, but that did not remove / change the vibration---it is a vibration, not a "shimmy". I plan to swap the stock wheels back on this weekend and see if the vibration stays or not.
Barring the wheels / tires this is what I am thinking:
-front drive shaft inbalance / worn
-engine / tranny mounts (sometimes lurches when put into drive)
-unbalanced front rotors (a lot of rust and rotor material fell out of the vanes when I "encouraged" the rotors to release from the wheel bearings
Some other thoughts:
- I had to put the tranny in neutral and move the transfer case output shaft to realign the rear drive shaft bolts-- for some reason the new driveshaft did not align
- I torqued the axle nut down with an impact wrench and then checked torque---if I over-torqued the axle nut, would that damage the wheel bearings?
- The shaft of the new, right-side upper ball joint did not seat all the way into the hub assembly and I elected to replace it, but the witness marks are not perfectly aligned when I pressed the new one in.
I am wracking my brain, but I am stumped. I appreciate all feedback!
I dropped it off at an indy last week. They kept it a couple of days but could not find an issue. I called a closer mechanic, but they (and I quote) stated, "We'll pass" and would not even look at it
The original indy checked for an exhaust manifold leak, checked the fan, and they checked all of the suspension components. They stated that all of that was good.
To date, I have replaced the rear drive shaft, the front UCA / LCA / Wheel bearings / sway bar bushings / sway bar end links / inner and outer tie rods. I have not touched the rear suspension, but did replace the rear diff pinion seal.
For the sake of sanity, the vehicle is aligned and the wheels were road force balanced, but that did not remove / change the vibration---it is a vibration, not a "shimmy". I plan to swap the stock wheels back on this weekend and see if the vibration stays or not.
Barring the wheels / tires this is what I am thinking:
-front drive shaft inbalance / worn
-engine / tranny mounts (sometimes lurches when put into drive)
-unbalanced front rotors (a lot of rust and rotor material fell out of the vanes when I "encouraged" the rotors to release from the wheel bearings
Some other thoughts:
- I had to put the tranny in neutral and move the transfer case output shaft to realign the rear drive shaft bolts-- for some reason the new driveshaft did not align
- I torqued the axle nut down with an impact wrench and then checked torque---if I over-torqued the axle nut, would that damage the wheel bearings?
- The shaft of the new, right-side upper ball joint did not seat all the way into the hub assembly and I elected to replace it, but the witness marks are not perfectly aligned when I pressed the new one in.
I am wracking my brain, but I am stumped. I appreciate all feedback!