Traxide/Battery Light Question

[wcryer]

Having a strange issue with the 3 lately. The battery light will come on intermittently. However, when I restart the engine it doesn't always come on again until a pretty long drive. I have a traxide setup installed. Tonight after the drive home, no battery light (after it had turned on, on the way to work). I look at the traxide LED indicator when I am home and it is solid (indicating it is not isolated).

I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on this. Is it possible as soon as the traxide isolates that the main cranking battery is worn out and would cause the battery light (has been pretty cold lately)? Is it possibly an alternator issue?

Other strange symptoms, on startup get random messages about the special programs. One that they aren't available and another that they are off (even with no knob movement).

Any ideas are appreciated. Need to check the voltage but old multimeter was worthless.

 

[bbyer]

Brake Light Switch re random messages.

I have the Traxide install as well and I have wondered if it would mask the effects of a defective main starting battery. In reality I do not know, but I expect so. About the only suggestion I have is for you to disconnect the second battery at the "blue" disconnect so that your 3 only operates on the main battery.

Do the disconnect thing at night when parked and put a battery charger on the second battery overnight just to make certain it has a full charge for next day. Then in the morning, just start up as you usually do but keep the second battery disconnected. Make certain that you have your booster cables with you so if your 3 will not start, you can boost yourself from the second battery. That is one of the nice features of the having a second battery. In reality, you do not even need a set of booster cables as you could just reconnect the "blue" connector, however I prefer doing it the old way as I do not know what is inside the little Traxide box, nor do I understand how it operates so I prefer to just bypass it in this situation.

Also carry a voltmeter with you and start taking readings of the main battery. One in the morning before you start up, another with the engine at idle after you have driven a few miles and you think the main battery is charged up, and after you park it etc.

With a good battery and alternator/charging system, you should see maybe 12.3 volts when parked and all is shut down; maybe 13.9 volts at idle and 14.4 VDC when the battery is low and being charged by the alternator.

Re the battery charger, I use a CTEK 3300US trickle charger for maintenance. It charges at a max of 3.3 amps and 14.7 VDC, (winter setting); 14.4 for the summer.

Re the random messages, my stock answer to that is install a new brake pedal switch per the link below. That switch can make any 3 look like a hopeless case. I found as soon as it got cold, my 3 would start the random message thing - did that for a couple of winters until I changed out the switch. The switch deteriorates over time and sends false messages to the CAN-bus via the HDC and a host of other systems it interacts with.

The link below is do my Gallery. Towards the bottom you will see the Album re the Brake Light Switch; near the top is material on my Traxide install.

Replace the ***** in the link below with disco3 co uk and insert periods in the spaces between the letters - got to love blocking.

http://www.**************/gallery/index.php?cat=15405

 

[wcryer]

thank you, awesome suggestions. I will report back with my results

 

[drivesafe]

Thank bbyer, and your are correct, the SC80-LR can mask a failing cranking battery and your suggestion of disconnecting the plug in the cable that runs from the cranking battery to the SC80-LR will allow a faulty cranking battery to go flat over night.

Hi wcryer, if the SC80-LR has a constant light, this indicates the isolator is on and the batteries are connected together.

The light will flash when the batteries are separated.

 

[tlt]

To elaborate even further on the subject. I believe the purpose is that you do not end up stranded if your primary battery goes flat, or in this case dies. If the voltage drops below a certain point on the cranking battery, the SC80 connects them. Under normal circumstances, ff the voltage goes below a certain point or flat on the 2nd battery, the SC80 protects the primary battery by isolating the 2nd battery.

The Traxide is a very nice bit of kit for sure, I have one as well, and you want one of these kits for any remote treks, winch, fridges and inverters.

 

[schafari]

I have the Traxide setup and one thing to keep in mind. If the cranking battery is going bad, typically it will drop below 11.4 volts on startup. In order to protect the discharge of the cranking battery, the Traxide will then disconnect the secondary battery. I was able to tell my main battery was on the way out, as I was often getting the Traxide disconnecting the two.

Now, I usually keep my secondary battery disconnected until I believe I may need it. I put a smart charger on the secondary Optima on a bi-weekly basis to top off.

 

[perkj]

I have the Traxide setup and one thing to keep in mind. If the cranking battery is going bad, typically it will drop below 11.4 volts on startup. In order to protect the discharge of the cranking battery, the Traxide will then disconnect the secondary battery. I was able to tell my main battery was on the way out, as I was often getting the Traxide disconnecting the two.

hmmm...what you're saying here seems to be the exact opposite of what drivesafe is seeing with his.

 

[wcryer]

hmm...

Well things seemed a bit strange after checking things with the mulitmeter:

Engine idling battery indicator light on: Traxide Isolated (Solid). Crank = 13.73V Yellow Top = 13.68V
Engine idling traxide disconnected: crank = 13.75V Yellow topT = 12.67V
Engine off: Crank: 12.19V Yellow Top = 12.66

So all seemed normal. Decided to run up to the local pep boys and found out they can do a health check on the battery starter and alternator. The test showed the cranking battery to be shot:
Voltage: 12.2 V
Measured: 327 CCA
Rating: 700 CCA

The tech also mentioned my alternator may be a volt or so low:
No load: 13.5 V
Load: 13.52
But said it probably isnt much to worry about.

So, that leads me to my next question. Any recommendations for the cranking battery (and specifically for a traxide setup)? Pep Boys had one compatible batt in stock - 94R730B

I wonder if the traxide setup did more to mask the bad battery or expose its age?

bbyer I am interested in hearing more about your Scan Gauge, seems like an interesting add on.

 

[wcryer]

Hi wcryer, if the SC80-LR has a constant light, this indicates the isolator is on and the batteries are connected together.

The light will flash when the batteries are separated.

I must have read that wrong in the instructions. It certainly makes more sense if thats the case.

 

[perkj]

So, that leads me to my next question. Any recommendations for the cranking battery (and specifically for a traxide setup)? Pep Boys had one compatible batt in stock - 94R730B
.

You best option for cranking batteries are:
(1) DieHard Marine Battery, Platinum PM-2 - Group Size 34M
http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do?partNumber=02850134000P
This is a true Odysse rebranded as a DieHard at over 1/2 the cost

(2) Interstate MTP-H8
An excellent battery and what the dealer installs if you buy one from them or get a warranty replacement.

I personally run the Interstate MTP-H8 (just replace by LR under warranty) and the Optima D34 as the second connected via the traxide. I found out about the sears battery after buying the optima and will end up using the sears battery about for when either goes out. I run a Battery Tender plus to keep both batteries charged while the lr3 is parked.

Will the lr3, whatever you do, don't put a cheap battery in it.