which rod?

[ablood008]

Can someone point me in the right direction to purchase the sasquatch rods?

 

[Houm_WA]

It's handy...

Wow! This really seems like the way to go vs. rods. I no longer see any advantage to a rod lift vs. this controller besides price. The little extra cost seems worth it compared to crawling around under the fender wells!

Only advantage I see is peace of mind or confidence in having a hardware solution installed. That said, I bought GAP Diagnostic's higher-end IIDTool which includes the functionality of the EAS Controller. I plan to continue using the rods but keeping the GAP tool with me at all times for any field repairs or otherwise, when it might be handy. I also feel like the more I screw around with the computers the more I take a chance of hosing something up.

As for the crawling around under the fender wells...it took me an honest 10 minutes last time I swapped the rods out. 12 minutes if you include the time to grab my jackstand and automotive ramps (I like to back the LR3 up onto the ramps to gain clearance, then throw the jackstand(s) underneath for safety).

With my pattern of driving now, I can get away with swapping the rods about twice a year.

 

[MilehighLR3]

With my pattern of driving now, I can get away with swapping the rods about twice a year.

Houm_WA, question for you. In my quest for opinion and truth I found an old thread discussing the Toddco spacer lift . . . You commented that if you went to a full time height mod, the spacer would be your choice. Still have the same opinion?

I have a bunch of questions, sent Toddco an email directly, waiting for a reply . . . Have only found one LR3 using a Toddco lift, but don't know if they're spacers or rods.

Appreciate any thoughts/comments.

 

[Trynian]

I also feel like the more I screw around with the computers the more I take a chance of hosing something up.

I felt that way when I first got the faultmate, now I do not even think about it. Pretty hard to mess things up permanently. Now I have installed a the locking diff, reflash components with new software upgrades and even fixed my buddys hard shifting problems with the bump fix software upgrade for the tranny.

The GAP tool works well and it is really hard to mess anything up just changing the height settings.

 

[Houm_WA]

@Milehigh: I don't remember saying that about spacers...but that doesn't mean I didn't. I'm really not qualified to say what's okay and not okay for the LR3. ...I know that at first I was pretty hesitant about running any lift full-time. Now I think it'd be fine, as long as the operating characteristics remained within the normal parameters of the original design. Using the rods, we're just forcing extended height when off-road. That's a normal condition. With the Faultmate or GAP, we're doing the same thing basically and no "bing-bong" and/or auto-lowering at a certain speed. Of course to do it full time one would need to do an alignment. I have not done this, because I only drive about 2000 miles/year lifted. The rest of the time I'm stock. As for spacers, I really don't know...but one thing that would concern me now that may not have surfaced then is the change to the suspension geometry. Now that a few control arms have smashed through air springs, do we really want to change their position relative to each other? Maybe we do! Maybe it would make the situation better, but I have not analyzed that and I'd be hesitant.

@Trynian: Good points and I'm sure the Engineer in me will not be able to resist dinking around with the settings and such using the GAP tool. ...but to clarify, it's not that I'm worried about explictly messing something up while using the tool...it's more that I'm worried about some kind of transient signals or current being introduced and hosing things up. I'll use it if I have to. That's my basic M.O.

 

[jwest]

.... Now I have installed a the locking diff, ....

Please expand on that. I assume you mean the rear axle and yours did not have the locking version from factory. How did you get this done and functioning properly with the whole computer system?

I am sure others will be interested for serious intentions.

 

[nwoods]

Please expand on that. I assume you mean the rear axle and yours did not have the locking version from factory. How did you get this done and functioning properly with the whole computer system?

I am sure others will be interested for serious intentions.

He did it the hard way. He manually installed an OEM locker and then spliced in a harness, patched the computer to enable it, and viola!

 

[Trynian]

Please expand on that. I assume you mean the rear axle and yours did not have the locking version from factory. How did you get this done and functioning properly with the whole computer system?

I am sure others will be interested for serious intentions.

Wow! has it been that long now. dod nt see this back when it was posted 7 months ago, but what Nathan posted was correct.

Hardware was easy. Just the new locking diff that came as a complete unit with motor and all and cost much less back then.

The electronics was just about tenacity and spending the time to find a wiring harness that had the bits I needed for a reasonable price. One could manually create a lot of this wiring but here are a couple pieces that you need to get from an actual harness. Luckily just the lower frame harness that is cheaper to get.

Final step is activating the locking diff function via a faultmate or other CCF programing device.

It has been installed since 2011 with no issues.

 

[Johnson Rods]

Johnson Rods Lift Kit

Hey guys, just upgraded the rod lift to be 50% thicker stainless steel and with a wider grommet. These are more durable for taking on and off.http://johnsonrods.com
Best way to lift your rig. Here are some photos:

 

[mbw]

I don't understand why they would need to be thicker. The factory rods are cheap plastic and work fine. This is not a load bearing part in any way, it just moves the other little plastic arm up and down.

Marketing?