Is it fitted with the harmonic balance weights that hang from the rear corners up inside the rear bumper corners ? I have a 2011 RRS that will occasionally do a weird shake / sound at certain speeds but clears up. Does it every few months. If you google harmonic weights Range Rover you will see...
I have a 2011 RRS SC with close to 200,000km on it . Had it four years now and been pleased on the whole. The RRS is a direct descendant of the LR3 so a lot of similarities. I can’t speak for the V6 in the LR3 but the weak point in the V8 is the timing chains NA and SC . I think the tensioners...
Definitely the aluminum but I’m not sure if it’s available for the non sc engine. They are different from what i understand. You could poke around on the LR4 pages as they have the na engine too and there has been talk of whether the aftermarket aluminum pipes are available and any good or not...
I have a 2011 rrs sc. I bought it used 4 years ago and got its full service history by asking the dealer. It had 145,000 km / 90,000 miles on at the time and had been through 3 water pumps by then. I drove it for a year and started losing coolant so I did it myself with a $153cad one from rock...
Let me know what you end up doing about it in case I ever get to that point . As it is I may have to lift the rear of the body up to replace the ACE active sway bar fitted to the rrs as it is seeping fluid. In which case I would replace those bushings at the same time regardless of what it is...
I’ve attached a link that should explain it. I have a 2011 RRS - a direct descendant of the LR3 that makes a peculiar hum from time to time and the clears up that I put down to the same weights but not clunking yet- thank goodness.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic78950.html
Foxwell make some. I have the 510 elite and use it on a bmw, Range Rover sport and a Honda. I paid $180 for it over 7 years ago . I ordered it with bmw software and then paid $60 each for the LR software and Honda. I like it. It is fairly straightforward and resets battery, drains air...
If it’s plastic which I think it is you can heat up a straight screwdriver blade and push it in carefully as it will want to melt straight through and then screw it out. I’ve done this on a broken plastic sensor in a metal hot tub heater with great success.
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