Should I buy this Low Mileage 2012 (70k)? (Pics & Video)

Maybe you should get a code reader to find out what hidden/suppressed codes are on these vehicles. I personally carry both IID Tool BT and a iCarsoft 930 at all times. The iCarsoft 930 can read/clear codes and some things that the IID Tool doesn't pick up and vice versa with the IID Tool (can re-configure the truck).

I'd stay away from suspension issues, unless you've dealt with them and know what you're doing.

The first truck, sounds like there's a lot of things going on with it and if you don't feel comfortable with the sale don't do it.

Run away from the green one. It almost looks like body flex created that? Either way that panel alone is $1750 Cdn OEM. You need to find a rig with NO visible issues. Even then a couple will probably pop up in the first few months of ownership.

I just bought my 2010 a few months ago from a dealer. It seemed to good to be true, was owner by a local doctor and the paint looked like a 20k mile car, not a 130k mile one. It was really obvious the truck had been babied and always serviced at the land Rover dealer. Sure enough 30 days in it threw a transmission fault code. Literally only would do it going up mountains/steep hills in 6th gear. If you buy from a dealer get the extended warranty. Most offer a full refund if you cancel within 60 days. If someone traded it in because of a major issue like timing chains, transmission, head gaskets etc that buys you enough time to have it properly checked out. I got a blackstone labs oil test done on my oil, got my new/used transmission, made sure everything was good then cancelled the warranty. I didn't get 100% back because I had a claim but if you have no claims in 60 days its a full refund. The warranty was $4000 but I should be getting about $3200 back (refund takes a while). $800 was well worth it in my case.

@werdnash2002 is this a land rover specific extended warranty (and from a rover dealer) or just a run of the mill that you bought?

it was just a dealership warranty (Mazda Dealer I bought from) Its a nationwide warranty company though. I wouldn't recommend the warranty beyond the 60 days because they can use used parts (they gave me a used transmission) but the alternative if I didn't buy the warranty was upwards of $6000 for a rebuilt one. They paid for my repair without much of a problem, took a couple of weeks though.

Alright Alright, I've rejoined the team (previously had a 1986 110).

Meet Betsy, she's a 2013 LUX with 100k miles, green//almond, with 7k interval oil changes, replaced water pump and high pressure fuel pumps, no codes, clean inside and out. Will be my daily driver and a tow vehicle for a family fun travel trailer (still in search of).

Question(s): anyone have an ox hitch receiver they are looking to sell? Also likely looking for a Hensley Arrow hitch.

Was only able to snag one key and its in rough shape... searching online the key fobs are crazy cheap... like 30isb bucks, am I missing something on those? And can the next generation style work with this model year? Some conflicting info on the listings.

Robert Kinsler said:

Meet Betsy, she's a 2013 LUX with 100k miles, green//almond, with 7k interval oil changes, replaced water pump and high pressure fuel pumps, no codes, clean inside and out.

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Congrats on getting the last of the V8s. Great looking Rover!

You should be able to buy a blank fob and transplant the guts of your existing key to freshen things up. But you'll need a GAP tool to DIY the programming of new spare fobs. My 2011 had the big chunky fobs and my 2013 has the more slimmed down version with the bright chrome cap.