2015 Coolant leak, not cross overs

water pump replacement is fairly easy [at least in lr4 terms] but dont let that tempt you to ignore the front crossovers and rear heat manifold while you are in there. BTW, there is a brass replacement for that little plastic elbow if you so choose to "upgrade" and you might as well do the thermostat and housing while at it as well.

I am slowly getting the parts together.
What is the general consensus on belts, idlers and tensioners? Change them all at the same time? What brand to stick with and which ones to avoid?

TIA

Always and forever, OEM parts only, with very few exceptions - one being possibly being that little elbow.

I did not change belts at 50K, they looked like brand new, maybe I should have ?

I did not change tensioners either.

At about 100K miles we broke down on a dark rainy night because the serpentine belt failed (I had the kids with me). The belt failure was caused by a failed idler bearing (this is the idler that you can't see which faces in the opposite direction to all other pulleys). The failing of the belt took out some of the cooling system and given these engines propensity to head warping if they overheat this whole affair could have been disastrous...

So, my 2cents based on a hard lesson learned is yes spend the $$$ as it's relatively low when compared to buying a new engine; buy OEM, in my case they lasted a 100K miles! I have the V8, not sure what you have but here are some parts I have recorded (my rough notes so please double check for your engine):

• The broken idler (the bracket I think is OK)
  • LR035555 ($211 at Lake Bluff)
  • LR010725 is the pulley ($50)
    
• Bolt for the same idler
  • Not seeing this yet, not needed if we buy the bracket!
    
• The other idler (preventative - above the alternator)
  • LR106769 ($48 at Lake Bluff)
    
• The pulley on the belt tensioner (has a slight nick)
  • LR071035G ($167 at British Atlantic, $145 at Lake Bluff)
    
• New serpentine belt
  • LR190101 ($37 at Lake Bluff)
    
• New viscous fan pulley belt
  • LR012663 ($39 at Lake Bluff)
    
• New viscous fan pulley (spotted a little damage on it)
  • LR012624 ($95 at Lake Bluff)

Sorry to hear that. Did you hear any abnormal or unidentified noise that you now know is from the bearing?

No noises, in hindsight had I known I suspect checking for bearing play may have revealed the issue! So, what I might do now is release the tension on the belt and then just check if there's any play in any of the idlers, it should be pretty quick to do this. Clearing up from this mess I found a bunch of ball bearings under the vacuum pump!

txfromwi said:

Always and forever, OEM parts only, with very few exceptions - one being possibly being that little elbow.

I did not change belts at 50K, they looked like brand new, maybe I should have ?

I did not change tensioners either.

Click to expand...

I am having some difficulty figuring out what is needed then.
It appears there might be 2 different tensioners, but that one(LR039517) might work in both locations? The online Land Rover parts site claims that LR071035 will not work, but sites like Lucky 8 and Atlantic British shows that it will?

And then the idler pulley has a few options also, but again one(LR106769) might work for both? Is this accurate?

I will tear in it tomorrow, that might help answer the pulley question. However, any insights on the tensioners?

I rely on Palm Beach Rover for my parts. They are wizards at finding part numbers and getting what I need. Well worth the slightly higher cost.

I figured out the parts I needed. I will add it to close that question for the next person that looks for this info. For those wanting to go OEM, here is what I got:
LR039517 Belt Tensioner
LR106769 Pulley
LR011327 Belt
LR184641 Serpentine Belt
LR035545 Idler Pulley
LR071035 Belt Tensioner --> this replaced LR035546