In conclusion:
The AMK compressor is a pretty good unit but more touchy than its predecessor, the Hitachi. I kind of wish I just kept the Hitachi and did more services on the desiccant (my fault I blew it up).
Based on my experience with this unit, I would say the unit should be removed...
Here are close-up photographs of the front plate (which goes on the plastic dryer assembly) as well as the reverse. The tubing goes in and out of that plate, which is what are the wholes are for.
Also, a close up of the rear plate.
These are photographs of the plastic housing for the dryer (desiccant) and air intake for the compressor.
Most folks focus on this as you can just pull the compressor, open the front plate for the air intake and then replace the seals / o-rings and desiccant beads. A lot easier than tearing...
This is the aluminum cylinder block -
Also a photograph of the new Piston Compression Rings (the new Piston came with rings already installed so they were not needed - I purchased them on eBay as well).
This is what the brushing with copper winding and crank assembly looks like (note the piston bearing at the end of the crank which was stuck on - we used a manual press to press it off and then press the new piston with bearing on).
Here is a close up of the fasteners used in the compressor - all which will come out with a complete tear down.
And a photograph of two very troublesome bolts which attach the plastic unit / air intake to the aluminum body - they are torx and corroded so badly that they had to be extracted by...
Here is an overview photo with all the parts broken down.
Also is the box the new piston arrived in (with part number - which is the same for a lot of vehicles which use this AMK model, such as Mercedes).
Also, another photograph of the dryer beads and replacement seals available from...
Tribe,
AMK Compressor rebuild complete to include the installation of new piston (purchased from a Chinese manufacturer through eBay which I believe is the supplier to AMK itself; this was the only way I could find the item after we broke the piston extracting it from the brushings / crank). It...
Thanks and the truck didn't come with the wiring (which is strange to me) but I bought the NAS (USA) version and had that installed at the dealership when it was delivered (with all these other things...to include this OEM Trailer Hitch).
Atlantic British sells an aftermarket for my truck (that...
I wrote them!
Many thanks @Longtrail
I think their part
"LR Hitch Receiver Lock Alternative Replacement"
https://landrader.com/the-shop/ols/products/lr-hitch-receiver-lock-alternative-replacement
Is exactly what I need (and maybe even an upgrade)!
After we screwed this up - I now know what you (@Rover Range ) mean and that would have been a far, far easier solution.
The powerfuluk videos demonstrate how to push that roll pin out with an awl punch.
Easier (and cheaper!) than what we are doing now....
Tribe,
Update for this project:
I ordered the part needed to proceed, the "tow hitch ratchet cog repair kit" from the only supplier I can seem to find, which is powerfuluk...
Thanks for everyone's great inputs and advice!
Unfortunately, things did not go as planned and now I have the attached photo - a broken red gear.
You can also see in the other photo how corroded everything is under there - we actually had to clean and paint everything to freshen it up; the...
Tribe,
Following-up with this idea and @jlach993 's thread: I went ahead and completed sound deadening in the rear lower hatch as well as serviced/replaced the hatch assembly and performed the upgrade for a manual / pull opener.
There is lots of material of this upgrade online so let me know...
So we are done with the refurbishment for the rear bumper and assembly, rear tire carrier, and re-installation of the rear tire carrier.
Photos of that work attached.
The point of this post is noting that more steel...means more rust. More rust...means more rust treatment. This is the...
Dropped fuel tank and then the old components pulled out attached. They were still working properly but I was going to go ahead and replace everything while the fuel tank was down.
Unfortunately, I still have to fix an issue with the fuel level measurements; for more, see that thread in...
So to follow-up from my last post on this (#11) -
I am busted for not finding all the threads - answer to my question -
Comes to mind but I don't know what that "low pressure sensor" does and even he had great difficulty in understanding what it did (and he replaced it, if I understand...
Regarding the error / fault: I have an error light (see image 002 attached in previous post) which indicates that the vehicle fuel level is zero (regardless of what is actually in the tank). This error light does not throw DTC codes (via the GAP IID tool) but is persistent and show no fuel...
So I wanted to follow-up regarding my situation.
Photo of my dash with the fuel error I have been having for several months below (i.e. no fuel measured at all and the "Fuel Level Low" warnings).
After pulling out and replacing the seal, filter unit, and sender unit (pump assembly with the...
Update from the Dynamat install for Door Deadening. Door cards are back on (without sound deadening on the cards for now...still considering this idea from @Jimmy Brooks ). Sounds a little bit better from road noise reduction and you can hear the difference in weight/resonance when closing the...
See the thread below - one thing worth noting if you don't get the right windshield will be a couple new DTC codes as well as some issues if you have AFS (and the auto wiper and auto high beam assist functions).
My lessons learned - replace with an OEM windshield...
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