Mine failed on me around 80k miles. Had a shop fix it. Im at 167k now and the way things go sometimes like clockwork, I decided to be proactive. I also put a black ziptie around the factory cable end to help ensure it does not pop out from the plastic holder breaking. Hopefully all the work will...
Yup. Poly bushings. I installed those on mine a couple years ago. Ride is definitely firmer than with OEM bushings. I was already on my second set of control arms and the clunking started again. I decided I'm not replacing them anymore and installed poly's to just be done with it. I dont even...
Good video here on all things door related:
The lock cylinder does need to come out to remove the handle assembly. It is held in with a small torx behind this black gasket. You just need to loosen it enough for the lock cylinder to come out. You do not need to remove the screw completely.
Just finished installation of new rear Aerosus air struts. 1.5 beers out of 6 for difficulty. Hardest thing is the top inside 15mm nut on the drivers side. Passengers was the same but had better access. Rusty threads made these a real PITA. I'd say if someone is planning to do these in the near...
The metal is pretty soft. Just spread both the round parts that normally grip the spade enough to fit over the cable. Used pliers to crimp onto the cable.
I have had the rear hatch issue in the past and I figured it was time to be proactive about preventing any issues in the future. Did the install based off of this old Expedition Portal thread: Latch Mod. Lucky 8 sells a kit from Italy, but Im not spending that much for something you can spend a...
That elbow and the way it holds in is one the most over engineered parts/assemblies on the LR4. Would have just been simpler to press fit a 90 degree elbow in and call it a day.
I notice it when pulling slowly out of my driveway. As I turn the steering wheel, the feel gets tight, then loose, then tight (pulsing feeling). I thought maybe my fluid level was low, but it was fine, just very black. Fluid flush cleared it up.
I guess its time to pull mine off (afraid to look!:D). I think if I was treating that area, I'd do POR-15. I've used it before with good results on various rusty metal surfaces.
When I replaced my front and rear crossovers early this year, that same hose on mine was flattened as well from the last time I did the job. I bought a replacement and made sure it was laying correct when I set the manifold in place this time.
I pulled the plastic off of my wiring harness on...
I used to have Duratrac's in the stock 19" size when I used to live in Virginia. We got nailed with some 2' snow and I went driving around. They handled it great with the Rover. They definitely started getting loud as the tread wore down. Supposedly the Duratrac RT's are a little quieter. So far...
Mine did the same last year. I did a DIY recharge and figured it was worth trying before spending big money at a shop. Pretty straightforward and has been working fine since then.
I think the front lower bolts seize up because of the position they are in relation to the road. Looking at the uppers, I'd give them a good does of PB blaster for a week then go for it. I had watched this video a while back about it when I did my front air struts.
This is the route I will go along with the metal pan when I do mine in a couple months. I think standard paper gaskets are fine for sealing vertical mating surfaces where you are not going to have fluids being held in by them, otherwise they suck for oil or transmission pans unless they are a...
Did front and rear diff fluid changes today with Royal Purple 75w-90 max gear. Since I had the front under shields off, I also did an oil change with my usual BJ's wholesale club Mobile 1 5w30 "synthetic" oil. While the oil was drained I replaced the vacuum pump as it looks like I've got the oil...
I used the 3M kit on mine last year as a test. Worked well, but the yellowing came back in a couple months. Need to do it again and then get them cleared as well. Maybe I'll try to find a automotive 'grade' clear with some UV protection in a spray can and redo the lights again in a couple of months
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