This seems like a good time to reprint Sergei's tip on checking alternator strength. While the engine is running unhook the negative battery terminal; if engine keeps running the alternator is fine, if it stops you have problems.
I'm not sure what the heater lights are on a 97, Jeff. Could you post a picture or describe where on the dash the lights are that aren't turning on?
Also, there is a great fix on another site about repairing the soldering on the rear window ECU. I cannot see how the two problems are related.
Could be Vehicle Speed Sensor starting to go. Starting with plug wires and spark plugs is an easy and relatively cheap solution that is also probably an update you need anyway...
Use something to lube those lug nuts when you replace them, too. I used marine grease (it's blue), and others have used grease of different types as well. Makes those lug nuts slide right off...
I agree 100%. If the brake light switch weren't broken (thus, no brake lights), I would just bypass the damned solenoid. My habit is to hit the brake anyway, after 15 years of driving American cars...
...makes me wish I had a stick -- although I suppose the clutch interlock switch wears out...
The switch turns on the lights, and also signals the interlock solenoid that you can move the gear selector. No solenoid opening = no changing gears. It's a safety feature on NAS cars to ensure that you hit the brake before moving from park.
I managed to get the brake lights to come on...
Peter:
Don't mean to sound like a jerk, but try a search of the site for HDC, ABS, TC lights and read up -- a lot of people have been posting here about it, and somewhere in there is a solution :biggrin:
Good luck!
Andy
OK, so I got a line on the part....does anyone have any helpful hints for removing this thing? I don't have double-jointed elbows and I have big hands with fat fingers.
I need the infamous brake light switch (mounts on the brake pedal, screws you out of going out if it fails). I have a RoversNorth part number but I'd like the genuine part number if possible, so I can try to get my dealership to give me one ASAP.
RN # RNE678
There are a lot of people who absolutely HATE the P38A RRs (96-03?), and I'm not a big fan of the styling, but they are nice trucks. Those have problems with the air suspension, and various electrical problems (like all Rovers, I'm afraid).
If I had to do it all over again I would have...
I know this is a little OT, but as a mod :biggrin: I think it's worth posting. The UK show Top Gear tested an LR3 (Discovery), and the segment can be shown here:
http://http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2537137312542453259&q=land+rover
Anything you hit with any force is going to cause damage with either bar. The difference is where: With a brush bar, they often rotate up and bang into the hood; the A-Bar can do the same. Without one of them, you might crack a headlight, or dent the bumper.
They really aren't good for much...
Sounds like the stepper. What year Disco do you have? If you have a D1 (94-early 99 in the US) a search for IAC or stepper on this site will lead you to a pic posted by RoverChic, who used to post here a lot. It's attached to the (facing engine) right side of the intake plenum, right by the...
This is why, the longer people have Rovers (assuming they stay in the "Rover game"), the more likely they are to get a Series truck. Minimal electrics, no electronics, coils or leaf springs, mechanical gauges, and on, and on, and on. :biggrin:
Electrical faults, IIRC from reading the posts here and elsewhere. In other words, there is nothing you can do to prevent it, until there is a recall issued.
This site is actually pretty active for a Land Rover site. There is still a lot of activity on the alt.fan.land-rover newgroup, but most of that is UK-based. There are several other sites as well, but those don't have as much activity re: LR3 as here.
Techs seem reluctant to post -- maybe...
There were some ex-techs who were posting on here regularly, but most have fallen by the wayside due to health, moving, or other concerns.
User experience alone is worth hundreds or maybe thousands of dollars in savings. That is what makes sites like this one and many others valuable.
Look at www.chicagolandroverclub.com, in the "recent events" area there are D90's, D110's, RR, Discos of all sorts, and a LR3 that gets beat on a little.
You're right, it's an awfully expensive vehicle to trash.
I think you're undertanding now...
There is no such thing as a $4K new Jeep. If you're going to use that as your model, you have to go with a 94-96 Discovery, or an older RRC. Otherwise, take a look around and see how many brand new H2's, Land Cruisers, or Jeep GC or Commanders are getting...
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