So I messed around with the vehicle a little this weekend...not as much as I would have liked to - removed and checked all vacuum lines, pcv valves - cleaned the TB again just in case - Everything seals fine but one thing I noticed when I had the valve cover the intake vacuum line off I plugged...
One other thought I had last night...I wonder if a failing injector o-ring could cause this...since its intermittent it might be heat cycle dependent (as far as sealing)...might be worth swapping all the injector o-rings - this might not throw codes unless the injector really failed not sure why...
Maybe, I'd think that would throw a code (misfire or ignition related) but that's possible...I don't think we have cleanable/replaceable fuel filters on these guys...probably just an in tank pre-screen but I could be wrong on that. It's worth a look for sure and it would be an easy fix if it...
Ok so I've been having an intermittent problem that has finally gotten so bad that my '06 LR3 V8 won't run when it's happening.
symptoms: very rough idle when in gear, when in park or neutral it stumbles a little but not terrible or the motor will entirely shut off upon initial startup...
I just did the arnott front strut upgrade about 2 months ago and I'm not getting any faults and it raises just fine but I can tell you that one side doesn't perform nearly as well as the other so I ended up getting the o-ring kit from britishpartsofutah to redo all the valve blocks - that should...
yeah I have a similar device but I've found that when the OBD port reports an open circuit it can be anywhere including within the part...not necessarily the wiring (although in our cars I wouldn't pass up that option). I was having some cold start stalling and using my OBD tool it was showing...
Yes that is the housing I am referring to - the o-ring connection just after the 4bolt plate to the circular housing is where I have the most issues with mine.
I would check the pumps first...I have had the headlight pump fail once (still haven't replaced it) but its not terribly uncommon. It's also probably your cheapest option to replace.
should be fine...I have the same mileage and take ours towing with the camper...keep a couple extra things with you just in case but nothing out of the ordinary for a trip like that. wouldn't even think twice about it unless you're experiencing any weird issues.
Mine leaks from the large o-ring on the thermostat housing (what a horrible design that is)...mine drips a few drops every few minutes and I just top off the tank every two weeks or so until I replace the o-ring yet again (seems like I do this every 30K miles or so) This time I'm going to use...
I started towing with the LR3 at 105K and we're at about 130k now and no real issues...its also my DD - all maintenance is done but I can tell I need to change the tranny fluid here before the summer pulling season. We go up and down the coast which includes going up the grape vine (I5) grade...
I would go through every joint...start with checking lower control arm bushings and ball joints (common issue) ... tie-rods if the noise occurs when turning...also check the sway bar links (I know mine are bad right now and can hear it occasionally) just find a rough road and see if you hear the...
yeah I don't know much about them...Just when mine started to whine that's who came up in most of my searches...I was lucky enough to change fluid and the whine went away so I didn't pursue it any further...if you do go with them (or whomever you go with) updating here would be awesome just in...
Just a side note...if balancing doesn't get you there...also check for play in your tie-rods - our LR3 developped a slight wobble in the front end and I ended up replacing part after part and finally found that the tie rod had worn (not severly) but as soon as I replaced it - butter smooth...
I have an lr3 (same body as the LR4) - with 3 car seats but they do not fit in the second row...granted we have very large and wide seats (klek - funf seats or however the hell you call them). This isn't our primary vehicle so its no big deal to squeeze them in for camping trips and day trips...
Yes like sam above said...lr3 fob's can't be reprogrammed...once and done and the kicker is that the cheap amazon / ebay ones may or may not work when reprogrammed as well. I'm in your same boat I have one key fob and tried a few things with used ones, ebay clones, etc and have wasted as much...
isn't there a separate fuse link in the rear too - it's the little fuse box for the trailer wiring and whatnot...I think the rear lights might be in that cluster too. I think it's by the rear blower if memory serves (just remember reading about it in the manual). Not sure if you've already...
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