There's no requirement to retorque the head bolts after installation.
The head gaskets leak due to not enough head bolts and little material between the cylinders.
IMO. A long block is truly the best long-term fix.
Sorry. I was thinking of a different year model.
Either way, installation of the converter would be the same.
The torque converter sits like the pic shows.
Make sure the flywheel is not on backwards.
Pull the converter out.
Line up the notches in the converter with the two lugs in the transmission.
While supporting the converter as level as possible.
Insert into transmission while gently rotating a couple degrees.
You will hear a solid clunk when the converter seats into the pump.
Torque convertor needs to be further back.
Take a screwdriver and turn the torque convertor, through that hole.
Hopefully the torque convertor will pop into the the transmission front pump.
There's one on the fuel pump, which comes on the new pump.
The other is on a rail that extends to the front of the tank.
It is 100% accessible when the pump is removed. That's how you replace it.
Who are these clowns?
The sender is right there when you remove the pump. It can be a pain. But, it just slides out of the guides and the new one slides back in.
They can't be serious.
Parts required for the recall.
Fuel tank flange assembly
LR112785
1
Fuel filter
LR175172
1
Bracket
LR113338
1
Fuel tank flange O-ring
LR117476
1
Hose clip
CN1005
New fuel filter:
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.