The Deluxe bar is quite different than the newer Summit bar. The summit bar is styled differently, has larger diameter bars and has better LED turn signal lights, better fog lights with covers, better split pan for ventilation and winch mounting.
AND IT WORKS WITH 2010-2013 LR4.... IGNORE ARB...
lift rods DO NOT help you run larger tires. Lift rods change the AT-REST default height of the suspension. The maximum articulation of the suspension is NOT changed. The tire still has to clear when it is fully tucked up into the wheel well. the rod has NOTHING to do with clearance on tire...
Could be the BMS on the negative terminal. The current jumped through the body ground, through the bms into the - on the batt.
Best to pull codes, check fuses and go from there.
You could have messed with the alternator also, 14v, but how many amps? The regulators on those can fail and do...
Find a cat scale or make a trip to the local dump. Those scales are meant for vehicles.
Mine was weighed on a cat scale, I think its like +/- 10 lbs.
This was before my ARB bumper and winch, but with my rear bumper and most of my skids.
Here is my latest. All fully loaded for a trip...
It kicks on pretty quickly with grass/gravel/snow mode on icy roads.
This is what my 13' looks like with the rear locked up a little (it has 3 segments the progressively increase as it locks up)
what ryanjl said is correct. Don't listen to johnson rods or any other rod bullshit. Lift rods don't help with tire fitment. They are only useful for looking cool. They serve no additional function.
Just for follow up on my post before. I don't have any additional insight into why my 2013 (and others) seem to share part numbers with effected vehicles, yet are outside the tsb range.
That information came from the land rover parts database, Microcat which is software that runs on windows...
I looked into this awhile ago. Definitely a rabbit hole of information. Seems like it would be a good idea, if anything to keep the carbon build up lower on the back of the valves due to the direct injection.
I don't think I got past finding a good catch can option. No even sure where I...
i wonder if I have something wrong with mine or my key sensors. I hit my door handle lock button and it beeps at me twice. If i stand very close, or wait a few more seconds, it locks.
If I take the key out of my pocket it works better. Doesn't matter if the battery is new or not. Annoying...
Eric at tactical will still put the sensor holes in his bumpers. Mine has them. They only really work when I don't have the jerry or tire swings on. You do have to figure out the sensor mount, its a little tricky, but it works. Put o-rings around the front of them and make some little...
pretty sure the dash is leather. If you don't have extended leather, then the gauge cluster thing is just plastic, same with door handles, etc.
I use leather products on the main dash area.
BTW/FYI this manual does NOT contain the 5.0L V8 or NAS spec data. So it isn't very useful to 2013 V8 LR4s. I still use the 2011-2012 FSM and its pretty accurate for a 2013. I've never come across actual 2013 V8 NAS FSM.
Uh, mine already has all the computers setup properly, the wire harnesses, etc... It isn't just a diff pumpkin. It is an entire network of crap to make it work.
I can't quite tell if this is related to some of the things being said in this thread... but it might be.
There is a lifecycle to car forums of all brands, regardless of reliability (and I know that LR has a certain bad history with it).
I have seen this before several times. A great example...
It's just a design trade off. The L319 is amazing in my view for being as heavy as they are, as stiff, and yet ride the way they do. The suspension is beefy like a 3/4 ton truck, but they are so much more polished and precise than similar weight platforms.
Would be great to know if the LR3 and LR4 panels are the same fit. Let us know.
Even if you stick with the painted ones.. its pretty easy to pull them off and do whatever with them.. repaint, etc.
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