Thanks guys. I carry a Micro-start and was concerned because of what the manual says My battery is getting tired. Got a replacement scheduled in a week.
Appreciate the help!
When jump-starting, according to manual one shouldn’t but the negative clamp from the donor directly on the negative battery terminal but use the vehicle grounding post.
Is there a real reason for this? Why would it make electrical difference?
My manual shows battery on driver’s side and...
No, regular braking is fine at all speeds.
HDC becomes inoperative at 31 mph according to manual. If I have it on at 35 and slow to 30 I can feel it start. No growling. Down at 10 or 15 or so, if I slow even more then it growls. Not as bad as before.
Just had the state inspection done. Rear pads are 4mm.
The groaning/shuddering has decreased markedly but it still is sometimes there.
There’s no metal/metal screeching or grinding, just the low pitch groan and shudder.
Hour and a half drive. Northern Motorsport in Wilder Vt (I use them) or New England Foreign Cars in Hartford VT.
Rick at Northern is encyclopedic and knows LRs well
Good point. I use it frequently but for example it’s 1 1/2 miles to the P.O. most of my local driving is under 20 miles. I do the occasional 200-500 mile trip but that’s rare. Most of it is very local.
It’s an intriguing idea to have an accessible maintenance charge plug. Would it help the battery?
my local indie said he installs a lot of leads that go from the battery to a plug in the grill that is capped off. When in garage one can uncap it and plug in a maintenance charger.
Is this a worthwhile thing to do? It sounds as tho it might be a good 5hibg for a battery in cold climates.
Frank
Thank you. That’s good advice and I had already decided to avoid the dealer even tho it’s under warranty. My local indie charged me for 40 min time. He checked starter draw, alternator, battery. Battery is still okay but only by a bit. It passes the load test by a single bar.
Just read that Tata has taken the biggest write-off (loss) in Indian history. They are actively seeking private partners to infuse cash into JLR or to sell off part of the business.
JLR May disappear in a year or two.
They blame Brexit (JLR is a very British marque) for declining sales, cost...
Thank you.
Yes, I’m still under original warranty but I’m debating whether it’s worth the couple hundred bucks to spend a day and dealing with a really awful dealer.
But, out of curiosity, how are batteries tested?
Oh, crap! Even tho I’m still under warranty it’s a 1 1/2 hr drive to a wretched dealer. It’s another 40 minutes to the next one.
My “resting” voltage is 12.2-12.3. When I start, it drops to 11 but within a second it’s up to 12.5.
I’ve only made very local trips recently and it’s been bloody...
Since new, the clock on my 2016 always seemed to lose time, maybe a minute every few months. Then began slowing down faster a few months ago. About a minute every two weeks or so. Rate of slowing increasing, now it’s a minute every 3 days.
The last time I reset it it switched to zulu time by...
Well, LR or no LR, when there’s a layer of snow and ice on the interstate I’m not gonna go 70+ to check out new brakes.
There’s a difference between “driving” and “driving to check brakes” that maybe Yugo owners in ND don’t realize.
Thanks! I just got vehicle back and saw new calipers thru wheels. Duuhh-sometimes my head gets in the way!
Can’t yet test drive it. It’s 1 degree and roads have an inch of snow still on them.
Maybe salt but the NE dealers claim this isn’t a known problem and I had the calipers cleaned and lubed in summertime and they still hung up. Also, there hasn’t been a large forum response with the same problem.
We’ll see. My car is due back in half an hour or so. I’m gonna take it to my indie...
Try penetrating oil first. Put a few drops in every day for a week or two. Patience is necessary for penetrating oil!
I use Kroil penetrating oil. It’s the best stuff I’ve ever found.
If you can get purchase with an extractor it’s only the rust and crud holding it in and the Kroil will deal...
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