2007 LR3 HSE maint

[RAJOD]

I'm getting a new car to tow my boat. Old one was Ford Explorer Eddie Baurer thats getting old.

Picking up a 2007 LR3 with 80k miles. Just wondering what to expect to break in the next 20k miles.

I got the service records on it. And here is list of new parts done recently.

1. New Suspension relay and compressor
2. New Front control arms both sides
3. New Tires Perreli zeros
4. New Brakes front and back w rotors and sensors.
5. Battery
6. Front Hub and bearing
7. Oil
8. Wiper motor and blades
9. inner tie rods
10. 4 wheel align
11. LR quick release hitch with harness

I don't know if its ever had its injectors cleaned but it seems to run fine.
Don't know if differential fluid has ever been changed.

So it has many new parts but wondering if it needs spark plugs, injector cleaning or other things that they might not have done.

I changed my oil every 3500 w/ semi synthetic and my previous vehicles made 200,000 miles and still burned no oil between changes. My mechanic said he never saw cars that old with no sludge and not burn oil.

So I'll probably still do 3500 even though it seems newer cars will say every 8,000 miles or more.


Any maintenance tips would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[RoverGuy7]

I recommend 5k miles for oil changes, just to keep it clean, oil is good for longer then that.

One thing that should have been done already is the 75k service, if not, get the transfer case and differential fluids changed (front and rear, unless locking, is not part of the 75, but strongly recommended)

I wouldn't necessarily worry about it now, but around 90k get a major tune up, including air filter, PCV valve, injection service, and spark plugs. Always change the oil after an injection cleaning.

Regular, or a synthetic blend is fine to use in the engine, as is a full synthetic, just try to stay at or under 5k on each service.

Transmission fluid is not called for until 150k, and I recommend doing the pan/filter at the same time, if not sooner.

The only fluid that is not ever serviced by factory spec is the power steering fluid, which should be changed not more then every 60, I suggest every 30 to keep it clean, and prevent failures to the system.

I would say enjoy it for now, sounds like most of the big stuff has been done. Around 90, start thinking about the tune up and power steering fluid taken care of, and may be time for drive belts too.

 

[RAJOD]

Thanks Dave!

Does injector cleaning usually improve power and gas mileage?

I don't know much about Land Rovers but started reading up on them recently.

One guy said the fuel injectors clog up easily. Not sure how ofter this needs to be done, or is it only done if its running poorly?

 

[RoverGuy7]

Injectors don't clog up very often at all on these engines, the newer 5 liter direct injection, yes, but not these. The main reason I suggest injection, and induction cleanings are due to carbon build up in the intake and combustion chambers. These engines like to get dirty.

Depending on how bad yours is, you may see a slight increase in both power and fuel mileage, but across the board the biggest improvement is overall smoothness of the engine. I recommend doing a injection service every 60k miles, and a induction service every 30. Properly done, an injection service includes an induction service.

To go in to a little detail...

Induction service is designed to clean out any carbon and oil build up from the upper intake system. Doing this alone will clean the throttle body (which will greatly improve idle quality on these engines by itself) intake manifold and runners, and soak the intake valves to allow any carbon on them to burn off easier. A special chemical is sprayed at a high pressure to atomize the liquid into the air stream of the engine as it is running at operating temperature(can be done by yourself with ok results, search for seafoam, people seem to love this) A additive is added to the fuel tank to aid in cleaning off the intake valves and help clean out the fuel lines.

Injection service is a 3 part service. An induction service is preformed to start with, this cleans out the upper intake, and 'softens' hard carbon deposits. Then another chemical, more aggressive then the induction, is fed through the fuel rail and injectors in place of gas, and the engine runs on purely the chemical. This effectively cleans out the injectors and gets rid of the now 'soft' carbon on the intake valves. Then this chemical is burnt in the combustion chambers, which cleans them significantly.

Overall, the effects when done the first time are somewhat dramatic, and the vehicle drives much better. Once on a schedule, and you're keeping it clean and not cleaning it out, it becomes less noticeable, but that is just due to it not being as bad to start with. Always schedule this to be done immediately before an oil change, as this chemical breaks down oil, and you will get minor amounts in the crankcase during the service, probably wouldn't cause any damage, but I know I wouldn't risk it on my car.

 

[Houm_WA]

What's the typical cost of a service like this?

 

[PhyrraM]

It sounds like yours was well maintained. I second the tranfercase and differential oil changes. I would also do the transmission now, especially if you intend to tow or offroad or if you think the previous owners did.

 

[RoverGuy7]

I don't have the exact price of the parts on hand, but my shop charges around $150 for the induction, and around $200 for the injection, parts and labor, but rough estimate on the parts.

You will probably pay more then that at a dealership. Last dealership I was at was around 350 for the injection service. With your mileage, I would probably recommend a tune up after the service, as the injection chemical does take a little bit of life from the spark plugs.

 

[RAJOD]

Yea it looks like the previous owner did a good job on maintaining it. But I never like to assume it was all done unless I see it in a report.

I'm getting it from a official Rover/Jag dealer that just did what they call a "multipoint inspection" what ever that is.

Its never been used t haul a boat or anything. I paid for the new quick release hitch and had dealer wire the harness. All Landrover parts.

My friends said "don't get a LR" because of poor reliability. But I drove the cherokee, new explorer, traverse, audi, pilot etc. They all seemed cheap in the frame department. The pilot while nice on inside is unibody with weak looking suspension for towing. I actually like the heavy feeling of the LR3 and hope the motor can make 200k like my Ford did.

I'm hoping my mechanic can do most the service on it. Probably can't do the electrical as he probably does not have the equipment to diagnose it.

 

[RoverGuy7]

It is a very strong truck. Full frame with unibody on top. When they first hit the showroom, there was a cut away truck at the training center. It was missing, for display purposes, half the floor, most of the roof, a door, a lot of it's body and frame... The one door that was still there opened and closed perfectly, as if there was no structural 'damage' at all.

They're pretty straight forward to work on mechanically at least, biggest thing for someone that doesn't deal with them much would be to make sure the correct fluids are used, and put to the correct levels, they made it a little trickier then it really needs to be.

 

[RAJOD]

Found this place that has good prices on parts.

http://www.rockauto.com/

I don't think they are OEM though.