98 RangeRover HSE 4.6

[motox313]

I just bought my son this Rover cause it was at great price. Fixed the busted up driver window cranking system but didnt look at the engine knock yet. Knock is not there when driving buy only at idle speed and oil light flickers.....i am thinking oil pump loosing pressure or if anyone know if maybe something else i should start too look at?? Also where can I find an owners manual....there are way tooo many buttons. Oh, suspension was changed on this one but seems to be a little hard to handle on turns, any thoughts?Thank You.

 

[joey]

Drop the oil pan ASAP and clean the oil pick up tube or you will be buying a new engine fast....

Manual
http://www.landroverresource.com/

It is a 500meg download.

 

[motox313]

Thanks Joey! Its going in garage on thursday. Will have that looked at. Now yesterday it started stalling when coming to a stop. then started overheating (lack of anti freeze). gonna change fuel filter and clean throttle body and look for coolant leak. For the price of the Rover thought I was getting a great deal but I see i bought a few extra problems i wasnt told about.

 

[joey]

Never drive a rover that is over heating.. it has an aluminum engine and it will ruin it.

 

[motox313]

Hey Joey, i have the Rover scheduled to have the pick up cleaned this week. Would it be possible that it is the oil pump might be bad? I was looking at the picture breakdown of the engine and not sure what can go with oil pump if anything??? Also was told it needs a wheel bearing. I saw a replacement kit online and was wondering without tearing it apart yet myself......if u know if they have to be pressed in and how difficult it may be (i am only back yard mechanic). Thank!

 

[joey]

Oil pump could be bad... it is possible that the oil pump is bad...

Wheel bearing you should be able to pull and grease yourself unless I am not thinking correctly.

 

[PUNKslip]

Hey motox, which wheel bearing, front or rear? Most wheel bearing "cups" have to be "pressed" in. That is, they have basically zero tolerance. Getting the cup in is the easy part, it's getting it out that is a pain. The tough part is finding a place where you can get a punch behind it and slowly drive it out. Pullers are available, but hard to come across. I use a method that requires a stick welder, a moderate setting and some 6010 rod. I like 6010 because it doesn't stick too bad......no pun intended. I run a small bead around the surface of the cup, being careful not to stray one way or the other. The weld must only touch the bearing cup, and nothing else. When the weld cools, it shrinks and the cup basically falls on the floor and all is well. It has never failed me yet, and as an industrial maintenance mechanic, you can imagine I change a lot of bearings. Otherwise, a nice mechanic at any good shop will happily share his methods and maybe his tools.............

John O.
Crete, Ne.

 

[PUNKslip]

I posted an idea on how to remove a bearing from a bearing housing by using an arc welder to shrink the bearing cup. It is a tried and true method that has never-not worked for me. However, either I did something wrong in posting the thread, or someone removed it from view. The post was added around midnight on 11-02-09. Do posts get "removed" on this web site? If so, by whom and why???

John O.
Crete, Ne.

 

[joey]

I approved the thread.. the forum software doesn't like the repeated dots.

 

[PUNKslip]

My mistake. Thanks.

John O.
Crete, Ne.