Favorite Roof Rack? (boats, boards and a storage box)

[anglotron]

If it's the front ones, twist the plug with a flat bladed screwdriver pressed in the top.

 

[toddjb122]

If it's the front ones, twist the plug with a flat bladed screwdriver pressed in the top.

I have to take all 4 of them out (4 on each side). I tried the front one and the far back one... those things are in tight and I'm afraid of breaking them off in there or forcing too much and putting a screwdriver into my hand or the paint. There has to be something I'm missing.
I'll keep at it, but will stop by the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can find anything like the nylon trim tools (looks like a little non-metal crow bar) that the body shop guys seem to have. I dunno...

 

[anglotron]

Sorry, I thought you meant different ones. If it's the 4 plugs that are in the rails that cover the mounting screws then there's really no way of getting them out without destroying them ... at least that was my experience. They have a small slot at one side for getting a screw driver in, just need a bit of leverage!

 

[jwest]

For others visiting here for ideas, I've really liked my full length Hannibal rack. It's aluminum flat slat also but front to rear for maybe less wind noise but mainly a different way of mounting things.

I also have both side and rear awnings with their solid side walls. These are free standing (no legs). Rear awning makes awesome little room for cooking on tailgate but I'm planning a cook surface to one side maybe mounted to left swing arm Jerry can holder with water in that location.

Recently I decided to try the tent opening forward instead of either side. While the side created another space under the floor, this is much easier to deploy/repack and there's no issue with ladder to ground height.

Also the back door opens onto the rack rather than to other side of vehicle (pros and cons either way)

These roof tents are usually wider than deep when closed so this orientation has it wider than the rack edge, which is great allowing the cover zipper to hang freely and way more easily to slide without the rack itself in your way.

The zipper is only 3 sides (side-front-side) with the rear held in by a bead-in-slot design which you manage by just folding it back and onto the rack. This then can function as a back door-mat.

The RTT is mounted fully forward using a little less than 1/2 rack surface. On solo trips I often sleep inside on s platform so the RTT over the sunroof is nice in case of rain or snow while fully ventilated.

A big reason I went with Hannibal in 2006 was for these awnings but there weren't as many rack choices then either.

 

[jwest]

It functions as a Kitten jungle gym too

Starboard side now has full awning and some other changes so I'll update photo later.

I think Todd's rack has the slots in the slats as well which are so convenient for mounting things like s Jerry can holder or gear case.

 

[toddjb122]

Sorry, I thought you meant different ones. If it's the 4 plugs that are in the rails that cover the mounting screws then there's really no way of getting them out without destroying them ... at least that was my experience. They have a small slot at one side for getting a screw driver in, just need a bit of leverage!

Wow, these are a major pain in my backside.
I got one out using advice on the web which give tips on the screw driver or leverage method (with trim tools). It doesn't really work.
I broke two off which are giving me heck right now trying to get the remnants out... and then I remembered your screwdriver tip (you were talking about different plugs I think).
I couldn't see how to jam a friggin' screwdriver in that hard plastic, so... I drilled a couple small holes in the top of the plug, stuck in a small screwdriver, and twisted that son of a b*tch out easily. The last 5 came out like cake once I used this method.

I still have two broken off in there. I honestly don't know how to get them out. Everything I try seems to just wedge the hard plastic further down in the hole against the treads.

Any suggestions for removing a broken off plug? I'm passed the point of being able to stick a screw driver in it and turn, now.

 

[anglotron]

I think you'll probably have to drill those remnants out. They're M6 threaded holes in the roof so a 3/16 drill bit should be small enough to not damage the threads.

 

[SHS14]

I had to drill them out and use a xacto knife to finish scrapping the plastic bits out. Then got the right tap to clean up the threads. Pain in the butt!


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[jwest]

Wow, these are a major pain in my backside.

Any suggestions for removing a broken off plug? I'm passed the point of being able to stick a screw driver in it and turn, now.

You just need to go get proper tools, that you drill, and tap for removal. The tool name escapes me but I just saw them while getting a 14 - 1.5 die and tap. The reverse curvy things that you drive in and then can reverse pull out the broken stud,screw, etc.

 

[toddjb122]

You just need to go get proper tools, that you drill, and tap for removal. The tool name escapes me but I just saw them while getting a 14 - 1.5 die and tap. The reverse curvy things that you drive in and then can reverse pull out the broken stud,screw, etc.

Thanks. I ended up getting the smallest bit remover I could find (I think that's the broken screw curvy removal thing you're talking about). It didn't work. It did succeed in breaking the bits up more and I can get the rack bolt in just enough that I think it will work (with the extra space taken up by the rack metal and washers).

I'd like to get more of it out though. I have two of the holes that have about 1/4" of that hard plastic compacted down in the bottom of them.

@SHS14 I've never used one of those taps. I'll have to look around. Are they specialty or is that something I can find in Home Depot? If you know where it is online, I'll order it there. Just want to get the proper M6 threaded tool...last thing I want to do is much this up further.

I think the bolt stops because of plastic. But it could be hitting resistance due to mucked up threads. Last thing I want to do is break off a bolt on top of the plastic sh*t already in there. So, I'm getting the bolts in there pretty firm, but I'm not giving that extra push that in past experience breaks bolts.