How long did/should your brake pads last?

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DonA

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I got 23k out of the pads. Where I live it seems like there is a traffic light every 10ft and it’s continuous stop-n-go.

I ordered the above mentioned aftermarket kit from Atlantic British. They had a special running at the time, if you spend over $350 you got free shipping. So that helped.

There was roughly a 1mm lip on the rotor edges so I decided to go for new rotors all the way around.

The sensors did not trip but, I felt for less than $40 it was much easier to install new then to risk trying to pry them out of the old pads. Out of curiosity I tried to remove the old sensors and they were so brittle from heat cycling they broke with very little pressure.

Pads in the kit were OEM LR, as were the sensors. The aftermarket rotors were non-discernable from originals, I’d be willing to bet they are the OEM supplier.

Install was straight forward, except LR uses 12-point heads on the caliper bolts. :stupid:

All said, after $425 for a few new 12-point sockets, a can of brakleen, the kit, and sixer of flying fish to help ease installation, I had like new brakes again. :proud:
 

jzk

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I changed my brake pads twice myself. The first time at around 20k, the rear sensor came on. Dealer wanted $850 just to do four pads. I think it was in the high $200s for the 4 pads and was a pretty easy install. We just needed to file down some wrenches because I don't have spanner wrenches.

I also changed the front pads and rotors on my friend's disco II. It was even easier than the LR3 because no spanner wrenches were needed.
 

schafari

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Oh no. . .what size spanner wrenches are needed for front & rear pads, rotors, and wear sensors? Basically, what unique tools are needed to do a complete front/rear job?
 

jzk

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For the front, you need a 13mm and 17mm spanner wrench for the front and a 15mm spanner for the rear. The problem is that you need the wrenches to be narrow. I haven't been able to locate "spanner" wrenches at any auto supply store, so I just ground down the wrenches on a grinder. I just used a c clamp carefully to retract the pistons. I have to do my rear pads this week or next.

I found the instructions on the disco3 uk site, but they were actually wrong, and I think a correction was posted:

Tools required;

Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool.

1. Securely jack the car onto axle stands and remove front wheels
2. On the left hand side, use pliers to pull the pad wear sensor off the pad
3. Remove the 13 mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame (use the 15mm spanner, rear, 17mm spanner front, to hold the sliding joints whilst you undo the caliper bolts)
4. Discard the caliper bolts (new ones are in the kit)
5. Lift off the caliper and support, take care not to strain the brake pipe and wires.
6. Remove and discard the old pads. (Front and rear pads are different, Front has 2 piston system, rear has 1)
7. Remove and discard the pad support springs (new ones in kit)
8. Use piston compression tool to fully retract pistons into caliper - take care and push the pistons slowly and squarely. (use a small piece of wood cut to size to hold one of the two pistons in place, as one come out as you compress the other in).
9. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
10 Fit the new support springs to the caliper frame
11 Smear a little brake grease onto the back of each pad, and a little onto the sliding surface that fits into the support spring
12 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion)
13 Replace brake wear sensor, refit origonal or tie back if you feel you do not need it if its still intact.
14 Replace the caliper onto the frame and use the new bolts to secure.
15 Refit road wheel
16 Pump brake pedal to prime the system.
17 Check level in brake fluid reservoir
18 Carefully road test

(taken from lr1 on the disco3.co.uk site)
 

DonA

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I know you can use a c-clamp & wood etc... But I purchased this brake caliper tool set from harbor freight on sale. (The store is down the street from my house) and it makes the job so much easier. $29.99 non-sale price isn't too bad.

40732.gif


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732
 
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jzk

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I used a c clamp and the old brake pad.
 

schafari

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Hey Don, I have that same Harbor Freight brake kit. It is a life saver. Used it on my Audis.

Jzk, thanks for the great info. Just what was needed.
 

jzk

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With my Audi S4, the rear calipers required a tool to "turn" the piston as it compressed.
 

schafari

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Yes, with many cars, the rear calipers are of a ratcheting type that need to be turned while being retracted. The Harbor Freight brake kit does exactly that.
 

DonA

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Funny thing, I originally purchased the kit to do brakes on an S4. Its come in handy ever since :driver:
 

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