Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement

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stufrowin

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Lr4 Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement

I changed my brakes 3 months/ 5k miles ago no problems. The last few weeks a slight grinding noise noted from back left. Wife complained of brake smell. Started going through the forum, decided I probably didn't bed my EPB correctly. Read the bible (brake) changed rear brakes again, bedded correctly with no avail. Read some more worried my EPB actuator maybe going, but everything with EPB seems to be working fine but this noise still sounds like parking brake issue. pulled it apart again and noticed play in the wheel ( 1 inch horizontal and 2 inches vertically on left) right side I can't move at all. (seems like wheel bearing to me) I'm stuck trying to get the hub off. No good spot to pull or whack with a hammer like the front. Any experience/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have it down to the hub with half shaft loose. Does the spindle need come completely off to gain access?

Thanks stuart
 
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howardduff

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If you don't get any answers from the forum give Atlantic British a call. Or look on their website. They have videos and if not for that fix they say they will answers repair questions on the phone.
When I changed the front wheel bearings on my LR3 I made a plate to fit over the lug nuts and attached a slide hammer. This worked ok on the RH side but not so good on the LH side. I found the housing rusted in the bore and really had to beat on it to get it loose. Best of luck and give us an update after you get it fixed.
 

stufrowin

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After 10 days on jack stands.. Fixed!!

Thanks Howard for your suggestion, I watched the Atlantic British video for the front but unfortunately significantly different from the back.

The bad news is it took me a long time waiting for parts to arrive in the mail. The good news is I finally got around to changing the air suspension compressor(dorman), installing control arm poly bushings(Atlantic british), new ball joints, changing differential and transfer case oil, while the car was out of commission.

I get a lot from this forum so I hope someone benefits from this. It was definitely my wheel bearing and not a problem with the brakes. To change the rear wheel bearing I had to remove the spindle/hub carrier, a few more bolts once the brake caliper was off. (mark the upper as camber adjuster) I tried hammering and hammering some more with no avail. The hub and bearing are both pressed in from the outside of the car. There is a ring clasp on the outside of the wheel bearing which I couldn't remove with hub in place. Tired of hammering went to harbor freight and bought 20 ton press, $150 (best descision ever). I had to use jack stands with press. (see picture) hub and half of wheel bearing were out in 5 seconds...awesome. Problem was half of wheel bearing was stuck on hub and I couldn't figure out a way to get it off. Tried torching to expand with no luck. Finally I used a cut off disc. But I nicked the hub, probably still usable but I opted to install new one. I can't think of a way to save the hub and get all the bearing off, unless it presses out clean or if you have magic hands with the grinder.

Pressed in New wheel bearing, then ring clasp, then pressed in New hub, reinstalled everything and problem is solved. Very happy with results, would probably go a lot quicker if I had to do it again. The parking brake shoes/springs/hardware is a pain in the %!$ to take apart and reinstall. The bible helped along with prayer:) .

Would definitely recommend a proper press and a wheel bearing adapter kit. Both of them I purchased from harbor freight for reasonable price.

Overall I would say not too difficult if you have the right tools, I'm sure I saved a bunch of money compared to the dealership and I acquired a few new tools in the process. (helps with the justification to the wife :))

Hope this was helpful!

Cheers!

Stuart

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stufrowin

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Pics

Photo 1- pressing hub in
Photo 2- new hub in place
Photo 3- happy wife with her car back in service!

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howardduff

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Stuart; Glad you got if fixed. I do the same as you, buy the necessary tools to get the job done and then have them for the next time. You never know when you might need them again.
If you ever have to take an inner bearing race off with a cut off wheel again, grind the slot parallel to the center line of the shaft. Do this in a couple of places and it will take the hoop strength out of the race. I watched the machine repairmen at the engine plant I worked at do this many times. If you grind just short of the hub then you can take a chisel and hammer and crack the race in the notches you cut. You can use the chisel to notch the area close to the collar on the shaft also. Sometimes easier said than done but it does work.
It is always more fun doing the job when it is done.
 

JARentDTOM

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Did you have a difficult time getting the rotor back on? I can’t get the parking brake shoes to compress enough. Any thoughts?
 

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